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Mammoth Cave 

PREPARED FOR 

H. C. HOVEY, 
1882. 






GUIDE BOOK 



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MAMMOTH CAVE ^"^ 



OF KEXTUCKY 



IlJSTORlUAL, SCIENTIFIC, AND DESCRIPTIVE 



HORACE O. HOVEY 

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CINCIN NAT I 
ROBERT CLARKE & CO 

1891. 




M Tbr MuUUua 



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pun i r'^'TF ExcHAMtseo- 




Copyright, 1882, 
B-- ROBERT CLARKE & CC. 



i 



MAMMOTH CAVE. 



CHAPTER I. 



Pioneer Patriots — Saltpeter Miners — Discovery of Mammoth Cave 

War of 18112 — Cliange of Owners — The Croghau Heirs — The Guides 
— Early Literature of thi> ''avern — Its Geological Survey — Its Fauna 
— Map-making under Difficulties. 

The pioneers who followed in the Avake of Daniel 
Boone, a century ago, were thrown on their own resources 
in all respects. Gunpowder was one of the necessa- 
ries of life for men in daily peril from wild beasts and 
more savage Indians; but its importation was attended 
with expense and difficulty. Ilencc they sent out such 
strolling chemists as happened to be among them, to hunt 
for niter beds. These were found in considerable quanti- 
ties under the shelter of ledges at the heads of ravines. 
The jutting crags reminded them of "Gothic cathedrals 
and the ruins of baronial castles" (as one of them ex- 
pressed himself in writing to his friends), and therefore 
they called the smaller ones "Rock Houses," and the 
larger ones " Rock Castles." The soil and sand-banks, 
thus protected from the rains, proved to be richly impreg- 
nated with the coveted saltpeter, and solid masses were 
sometimes found weighing from 100 to 1,600 pounds. 
Usually, however, three men would not obtain more than 
from 50 to 100 pounds a day at the works. 

The tools and methods used were of the most primitive 
kind, and the workmen were readily induced to forsake 
a niter-bed as soon as its yield grew scanty, and were con- 
tinually searching for masses of pure niter, and hoping. to 
find veins of precious ores. This led to the exploration 
of calcareous caverns, of which as many as twenty-eight 
are said to have been found in Kentucky before the year 
1800. A Mr. Fowler obtained from them more than 



o Celebrated American Caverns. 

J 00,000 pounds of niter, and thoy were so far from being 
exhausted that, aceordiui^ to the estimate of local chem- 
ists, the deposits remaining in six of them exceeded 2,000,- 
000 pounds. 

In the year 1709 a pioneer, named Baker, entered an 
arched opening near Crooked creek, in Madison county, 
about 60 miles south-east of Lexington, and proceeding a 
short distance under-ground, saw so many things to excite 
his wonder, that he returned to his cabin and took along 
with him his wife and three children to enjoy the further 
exploration. They carried with them a torch and a sup- 
ph' of pine splinters, but no food. Advancing about 500 
yards, Mr, Baker unfortunately dropped his torch and it 
was extinguished. "-For two days and nights this mis- 
erable family wandered in total darkness, without provis- 
ion and without water, though sometimes within hearing of 
a cataract which they durst not approach. At length Mrs. 
Baker, in attempting to support herself on a rock, per- 
ceived that it was wet, and conjectured that this was 
caused by the mud which they had brought in on their 
feet. Baker immediately ascended the rock, and saw the 
light of day!" 

This locality became known throughout the region as 
"the Great Cave," and was particularly described by 
Samuel Brown, M. D., of Lexington, in a paper read by 
him before the American riiilosophical Society, in 1806 — 
probably the very first of all communications of its kind 
in this country. 

Dr. Brown describes the Great Cave as having two 
mouths, 646 yards apart, with a commodious passage for 
wagons from one to the other, the floor having the appear- 
ance of a public road that had been much frequented. 
The level is 80 feet above that of Crooked creek, from 
which its entrance is 150 yards distant. The arch varies 
from 10 feet to 60; and the breadth averages 40 feet, 
though in some parts it is 70 or 80 feet. The narrator en- 
larges on the scenes romantic and sublime that astonish 
the beholder, when the vast chambers are "sufficiently 
illuminated by the torches and lamps of the workmen." 



Mammoth Caoe. 3 

The statement is made that the temperature cf the cave 
never falls much below 52 degrees Fah., even in the cold- 
est winter weather, and does not rise above 57 degrees at 
any time. To this, however, a curious exception is made, 
which I give in Dr. Brown's own words : '' In one chamber 
the heat was frequently so great as to be disagreeabla 
The room is nearly circular and about 20 feet in diameter. 
The air which fills the main avenue in summer and au- 
nimn is forced into this chamber, whenever the external 
atmospheric air becomes so much condensed by cold as to 
rush into the mouth of the cave; and whenever during 
tlie winter any portion of air in the main avenue is heated 
by fires or lamps, as this heated air can not escape by the 
mouth of the cave (for the arch descends toward the 
mouth) it ascends into this chamber and rises to the ceiling, 
where it must remain." lie then compares this peculiar 
cell to the Russian vapor bath to wliicli Count Rumford 
had recently called the public attention. 

Workmen dug down fifteen feet into the soil on the 
floor of this cave, and found it still rich in niter, although 
no animal remains are mentioned, nor Indian relics. 

The learned authorit}' quoted next enters into the de- 
tails of preparing saltpeter for the market, claiming for it 
superiority to that found in Spain and India, and closes 
his really remarkable and historic paper with an appeal to 
the patriotism of Americans to make themselves inde- 
pendent of foreign sources of supply. " A concern for 
the glor}^ and defense of our country," observes Dr. Brown, 
"should prompt such of our chemists as have talents and 
leisure to investigate this interesting subject. I suspect 
that we have much to learn with regard to this salt, so 
valualtle in time of peace, so indispensable in time of war." 

Had Mammoth Cave, with its immense deposits of ni- 
trous earth, been known at the time the exhaustive de- 
scription from which I have made extracts was prepared 
(viz., in 1806), the important fact would certainly have 
been recorded. I am led, therefore, to set aside the state- 
ment made by Bayard Taylor and others — I know not on 
what authority — that this cavern vras first entered in 1802^ 



4 Celebrated American Caverns. 

and to accept the commonly received tradition that it was 
discovered l)y a liunter named ITutcliins, in 1800, -while 
pursuing a wounded hear. The aperture hy which Ilutch- 
ins entered was small at the time, and has since heen consid- 
erahly enlarged. It is not regarded as the original mouth, 
which is supposed to have heen in reality the mouth of 
Dixon's Cave, sihout a quarter of a mile north of it, a 
maguiticeut hall, 120 feet high, GO feet wide, and 1.500 
feet long, as measured by me. 

The iirst j^urchaser of what is now held as very valua- 
hle property, was " a small, dark, wiry man of great en- 
ercv and industry," whose name was McLean, and who, 
for §40, hought the cave and 200 acres besides! He soon 
sold it to Mr. Gatewood, a hrother-in-law of the founder 
of Bell's Tavern — that celebrated liostelry of hy-gonc days. 
After enlarging the works, Gatewood sold them to Messrs. 
Gratz, of Philadelphia, and Wilkins, of Lexington, Ky., 
who brought experience and capital to aid in developing 
the hidden resources of Mammoth Cave. Their agent, 
Mr. Archibald Miller, employed a large number of negro 
miners, who were reported as finding there a quantity of 
nitrous earth " sufficient to supply the whole population 
of the globe with saltpeter ! " 

During the war of 1812, our government being excluded 
from foreign sources of supply, had use for all that the 
miners were able to furnish under the circumstances. 
There were lofty mountains and interminable forests be- 
tween them and the sca-l)oard, but under the two-fold 
impetus of patriotism and high prices, Gratz and Wilkins, 
and others who embarked in the speculation, though with 
less brilliant success, transported thousands of pounds of 
the precious salt by ox-carts, and on pack-mules, mainly 
to Philadelphia. Let • it be remembered by a grateful 
people that this Kentucky salt went far toward saving the 
nation in its hour of deadly peril ! 

The method of manufacture, as nearly as I have been able 
to ascertain it, was as follows: The nitrous earth was col- 
lected from various parts of the cave, by means of ox- 
carts for which roads were constructed that are in them- 



Mammoth Cave. 5 

selves surprising monuments of industry, and the soil 
thus gathered was carried to hoppers of simple construc- 
tion, each having a capacity of from 50 to 100 bushels. 
Cold water, conveyed by wooden pipes into the cave, was 
poured on the charge in each hopper, and in a day or 
two a solution of the salts Avould run into the vats below, 
whence it was pumped into a second set of pipes, tilted 
60 as to let the liquor flow out of the cave. After boiling 
a while in the open air, it was run through hoppers con- 
taining wood ashes, the result being, if skill had been 
used in mixing materials, a clear solution of the nitrate 
of potash, which, having been boiled down sufficiently, 
was put in troughs for cooling. In about 24 hours the 
crystals were taken out ready for transportation. 

Ordinary " peter dirt," as the miners called it, was ex- 
pected to yield from three to five pounds of the nitrate of 
lime to the bushel ; and to make 100 pounds of saltpeter 
it would be necessary to use 18 bushels of oak ashes, or 
10 of chn, or two of ashes made by burning the dry wood 
in hollow trees. It is stated that ""the contract for the 
supply of the fixed alkali alone, for this cave, for the year 
1814, was twenty thousand dollars ; "' from which we may 
infer the extent to which saltpeter was manufactured at 
that time. 

A\"hen the war was happily ended by the treaty of 
Ghent, the demand for saltpeter fell oft' to such a degree 
that Messrs. Gratz and AVilkins stopped the manufacture 
at Mammoth Cave, and since then it has been valued 
'mainly as a place of exhibition. The original territory of 
200 acres has grown to nearly 2000 acres, a portion of 
which has some value for farming purposes, while other 
parts are covered by heavy timber. Most of it was ac- 
quired for the sake of controlling all possible entrances to 
the under-lying cavern. 

Mr. Archibald Miller, aided by his brothers William 
and James, was the agent of Messrs. Gratz and Wilkins, 
and remained at the cave to look after their interests and 
to show the place to visitors. His brother-in-law, Mr. 
James Moore, at one time a wealthy merchant in Phila- 



[} Celebrated American Caverns. 

(Uliiliin, took possession of tho property in I.SIO. Tic be- 
came mixed np, in some manner, with the conspiracy of 
Burr and Blennerliassett, and was linancially ruined. 
Gatewood again took charge of tlic cave for a number of 
years, a period not marked by any important events, either 
of manufacture or discovery. 

Mr. Frank Gorin bought the pro})erty in 1837, employ- 
ing Messrs. ]\roorc and Arcliibald Miller, Jr., as his agents. 
The circumstance of Mr. C. F. Harvey's being lost in the 
cave for 39 hours, determined the proprietor to make more 
thorough explorations, in the course of which he found 
the great chamber called, in honor of him, " Gorin's 
Dome." He also placed Stephen and Matt, as guides, who 
aided in making further discoveries ; so that, within the 
next five years, the known regions of the cave were at 
least trebled. 

At the close of the Revolutionary war, special land 
grants having been made to officers and soldiers in the 
vicinity of Green river, Major William Croghan, a Scotch- 
man who had distinguished himself in the United States 
army, was sent to survey and distribute them. His office 
was located at Louisville, where he also married a sister 
of General G. R. Clarke. He left five sons and two 
daughters. John, the second son, was graduated from the 
University of Pennsylvania, in 1813, and studied medicine 
with Dr. Rush, of Philadelphia, afterward taking a sup- 
plementary course at Edinburgh. During his travels in 
the Old "World, Dr. Croghan was repeatedly asked for 
•particulars as to the chief curiosity of his native state, 
and the result of his mortification at his inability to reply 
was that, on returning, he visited and finally purchased 
the Mammoth Cave. He continued the management as 
he found it, but expended large sums on roads, bridges 
and buildings. Dr. Croghan nesi^er married ; and when he 
died, in 1845, he left the estate to trustees, to be managed 
for his eleven nephews and nieces, the children of Col. 
George Croghan, Mr. Wm. Croghan, and Gen. Thomas S. 
Jessup. Seven of these now survive ; of whom four re- 
side in Washington, D. C, two in N"ew York, and one in 



Mammoth Cave. 7 

San Francisco. The business at the cave has been carried 
on by agents, among wliom may be mentioned Mr. L. R. 
Proctor, Captain W. S. Miller, and Mr. Francis Klett, and 
Mr. H. C. Ganter, whose extensive improvements have 
made the cave more accessible, and whose urbanity and 
excellent regime have won many friends. 

A brief description of the guides is here in place ; for 
Avhile others explore these subterranean realms occasion- 
ally, these men do so daily, until they become almost iden- 
tified with the rocks, rivers, and crystals found there. 




Stephen Bishop, the Guide— Mammoth Cave. 

The original guide, whose daring exploits and striking 
traits made him famous, was Stephen Bishop. He was a 
slave, half negro and half Indian, although the latter point 
is in doubt. His likeness shows him to have had intelli- 
gence and wit, and the statements of his employers and 
visitors agree in according to him an excellent knowledge 
of geology and other sciences, so far as they related to 
caverns. He had also a smattering of Latin and Greek, 
and a fund of miscellaneous information. The remains 
of this sable son of genius now rest beneath a cedar tree 
in the tangled grave-yard near the garden. 

Matt and Xick Bransford, formerly slaves, were for 



8 Celebrated American Taverns. 

many years employed as guides ; but now the one is dead, 
and the otlier is retired from scrviee on account of 
his mtirmities. William Garvin lias been a guide for 
twenty-six years and is a general favorite. Henry, the 
son of old Matt, Eddie Bishop, a nephew of Stephen, and 
several s^jccial guides for occasional service, are all 
thoroughly familiar with the ramiiications of the great 
cavern, and ready to enliven the tri}) l)y drawing on their 
repertoire of jokes, original and selected. Civil and re- 
spectful as these men uniformly are, the tourist will do 
well to heed alike their instructions and their authority. 
Their prompt alacrity has saved more than one valuable 
life when suddenly endangered ; audit is also their duty 
to protect the cave property from the wanton or thouglit- 
less injury that might otherwise be wrought by reckless 
hands. By special acts of the state legislature it is made 
a misdemeanor punishable by a fine of fifty dollars, to de- 
face or mntilate an}'' part of any of the several caverns on 
the Mammoth Cave estate, or to chip oft or carry away 
any specimens from them. Protection is likewise ex- 
tended to the trees, shrubbery, fish and game on said es- 
tate, and the manager and guides have power to see that 
these wise enactments are enforced. Canes, torches, tire- 
works, geological hammers and surveyor's instruments are 
for obvious reasons interdicted. Lamps are admissible, 
and the guides burn chemical fires at various points of in- 
terest. Choice specimens can be bought at fair prices from 
the hotel cabinet as souvenirs. 

The early literature of Mammoth Cave is scattered 
through many magazines and newspapers. The oldest 
account that has fallen under my observation is contained 
in a letter from Louisville, dated July 5, 1814, and pub- 
lished in the 31edlcal Repository, vol. xvii, pp. 391-393. It 
is accompanied by a map and a list of localities. The name 
given is the " Green River, or ^lammoth Cave." The 
letter-writer describes a mummy " supposed to have been 
a queen," found a cpiarter of a mile from the mouth of 
the cave, but " lately deposited there from a neighboring 
cave." It is curious to note the old names. Audubon 



Mammoth Cave. 9 

Avenue was called "The lliglit-hand Chamber;" the 
Corkscrew, " The Mountain Room ; " The Gothic Gallery, 
the " Sand Room ; " the Gothic Avenue " The Haunted 
Room;" and the Chief City, " The Devil's Chamber, sup- 
posed to be ten miles from the mouth ! " In the Medical 
Bcpositonj, vol. xviii, is a le'.ter from Mr. Gratz, one of the 
oAvners of the great cave, and also an engraving of the 
famous mummy from a drawing by Rafinesque. Mr. Wil- 
kins, the other owner, wrote an account that is to be 
found in the Transactions of the American Antiquarian 
Society, vol. I., where are also letters by S. L. Mitchill, 
M.D., concerning the mummies found in Kentucky and 
Tennessee. The oft-quoted letter of Nahum Ward, M.D., 
dated Marietta, O., April 4, 1816, was first published in 
the Worcester Spy, and reprinted in the Monthly Magazine 
or British Bcr/istcr, July, 1816, with a map of the cave and 
an engraving of the mummy. The " Great Kentucky 
Cavern " is numbered among " The Hundred "Wonders of 
the World," in a book with'that title, by Rev. E. C. Clark, 
published in ^ew Haven, Conn., 1821. 

A surve}'- of the Mammoth Cave was made, in 1834-5, 
by Edmund F. Lee, C.E., who devoted three months to 
the task, and his "Map with l^otes" was published by 
James & Gazley, of Cincinnati, 0. !N"ext came a brilliant 
account, in the American Monthly Magazine, May and 
June, 1837, by Robert M. Bird, M.D. (author of " Calavar"), 
with an engraving, by Sartain, of the mouth surrounded 
by the ruins of the saltpeter works. Dr. Dekay gave the 
first description of the blind fish {Amblyopsis spelmis), in 
1842, see Zoology of E"ew York, pt. 3d, p. 187. Profes- 
sors Locke, Wyman, Agassiz, Silliman, and others, have 
at diff'erent times written communications as to the phe- 
nomena of Mammoth Cave, that have appeared in the 
American Journal of Science and Art ; and an extended 
description of the cave fauna, by Dr. Telkampf, appeared, 
in 1844, w^th figures, in Mailer'' s Archiv. 

" Rambles in the ^Mammoth Cave, during the year 1844, 
by a Visitor" (supposed to be by Alexander Bullett, Esq.), 
with six cuts, and a map, by Stephen, the guide, was pub- 
lished by Morton & Griswold, of Louisville, in 1845. Col- 



JO Celebrated American Caverns. 

liii's "Ilistoiy of Kentucky" (1847), contains quite a full 
account of this cave. " A Pictorial Guide to the Mam- 
moth Cave/' with nine cuts and eleven poems, came from 
the pen of Rev. Horace Martin, in 1851 ; and, in the same 
year, " An Officer of the Royal Artillery," gave a most en- 
tertaining account in Frazcrs Magazine, repuhlished in 
LittclVs Llci)i(j Age, Ko. 348. One still more graphic was 
:,vvrittcn in 1855, hy Bayard Taylor, for the New York Trih- 
une, afterwards published in his "At Home and Abroad.' 
Professor Wright's "Guide Manual" was printed in 1860, 
at Louisville. " The Mammoth Cave and its Denizens," 
by A. D. Binkerd, M.D., was published, in 1809, by Rob- 
ert Clarke & Co., of Cincinnati, O. Photographs taken 
by magnesium and other methods, by Messrs. Waldack, 
Thumm, Sesser, Ilaius and Darnall, are on sale at the 
hotel as cabinet and stereoscopic views, and in line albums. 
Forwood's " Historical and Descriptive jS'arrative of the 
Mammoth Cave," with twelve illustrations and a nuip, 
passed through four editions between 1870 and 1875. It 
is from observations made in, 1867, supplemented by infor- 
mation derived from Messrs. Proctor and Gorin, and 
others, and embodies the results of much investigation. 
The illustrated description, by A. R. Wand, in Appleton's 
•'Picturesque America," vol. II., pp. 540-544, is very fine, 
artistically considered. 

The State Geological Survey of Kentucky — both the 
former one under Prof. D. D. Owen, and that now in 
progress under Prof. X. S. Shaler, with an able staff of 
assistants — contains valuable materials as to the cavern 
region of the Ohio valley. Admirable monographs on 
cave animals have been published by Professors Putnam, 
Packard, Cope, S. I. Smith and II. G. Hubbard. The lat- 
ter gives a table of the fauna of Mammoth Cave, includ- 
ing all species described down to March, 1880. Omitting 
scientific details, it may be stated, in a general way, that 
there have thus far been described, as species peculiar to 
this cavern : Yertebrata, 4 ; Insecta, 14 ; Araehnida, 8 ; 
Myriapoda, 2 ; Crustacea, 5 ; Vermes, 3 ; Polygastric In- 
fusoria, 8 ; and Phytolitharia, 5.* 

* Seo Appendix for an account of Pauim and Flora. 



Mammoth Cave. \\ 

To all the ioregoirig authorities I desire to express my 
obligation for facts and suggestions that have been of use 
in the study of the subjects treated in this volume, and in 
my former articles in Scrihners Magazine (April and Oct., 
1880), and in other periodicals. 

The maps made of Mammotli Cave are in themselves an 
interesting study. A critic would hardly recognize them 
as representations of the same locality. Few can appre- 
ciate the ditHculties of an underground survey, amid rug- 
ged and tortuous paths, deep pits and lofty domes, all 
wrapped in darkness but imperfectly scattered by lamp- 
light. Imagine a map of Pike's Peak plotted from ob- 
servations taken by torchlight on a series of moonless 
midnights ! Then, again, the singular atmospheric condi- 
tions throw doubt on the barometrical tests, though applied 
by men of experience. A few facts only, of this nature, 
seem to be agreed on, and those are mentioned in their 
place in another chapter. I am informed that a set of 
levels was run by the State Geological Survey, from Green 
river to Echo river, but the results, I believe, have not 
appeared. 

It should be understood, therefore, that accuracy is not 
claimed for the accompanying map. The portion this side 
Echo river corresponds with the recent survey made by 
Mr. Francis Ivlett, conducted independently of all previous 
ones, and with the advantage of a long experience in the 
Ignited States Geographical Survey. Yet he only claims 
for it an approximation to correctness, and that not in de- 
tail but in the general courses. The part beyond the rivers 
is modified from older surveys, with the assistance of my 
artist, Mr. J. Barton Smith, and may serve as an aid to 
the memory, if nothing more. It is not attempted to in- 
clude all the 223 avenues that are said to have been ex- 
plored,* and many of which are never entered by visitors. 

*"The known avenues of Mammoth Cave amount to 223, and the 
united length of the whole equals loO miles. The average width is 7 
yards, and the height the same. About 12,000,000 cubic yards of cav- 
ernous space have here been excavated by calcareous waters and at- 
mospheric vicissitudes." Owen's Geological Survey of Kentucky, Vol. I., 
page SI. 



CHAPTER II. 

Location and Geological Relations — White's Cave — Salt Pave — Short 
and Long Caves — Mummies and Sandals— Gigantic Fossil Remains — 
]Maminotli Cave withoul a Rival — Where it is, and How to get there — 
A Charming Resort — Hotel evolved from the Log Cabin — The 
Outfit — Necessary Regulations — Entrance to Mammoth Cave — Green 
River — Dixon's Cave — A Noble Vestibule — The Iron Gate — Blowing 
Caves — A Changeless Realm. 

The cavernous limestone of Kentucky covers an area 
of 8,000 square miles, and varies in thickness from 10 feet 
to 300 or 400, the average, perhaps, being about 175 feet. 
This rock show's few traces of dynamic distui-bance, but 
has been carved by acidulated water, since the Miocene 
epoch, into numberless caverns. 

The absence of running streams is one of the striking 
features of the region, explained by the fact that nearly 
all the rivulets have long ago eaten their way through to 
the drainage level, and re-appear as large springs feeding 
rivers of considerable size. It is said that one may, in 
certain directions, travel fifty miles without crossing run- 
ning water. The voyager along such rivers as exist, will 
observe, at intervals, arches in the bluffs, whence the 
waters of subterranean streams emerge ; and should he 
explore these openings, he would find them the entrances 
to caverns ascending by tiers toward the general surface 
of the country. And were he to make his way from stage 
to stage — a thing not often possible — he would at length 
come out into a valley shaped like an inverted cone, along 
whose sides grow bushes and trees, usually matted into a 
dense thicket. These valleys are called " sink-holes,*' and 
they serve to drain the surface around them. These sink- 
holes are said to average 100 to the square mile; and, ac- 



Manunoth Cave. 13 

cording to Shaler, the State Geologist, " there are at least 
100,000 miles of open caverns beneath the surface of the 
carboniferous limestone in Kentucky." 

It is said that there are five hundred known caves and 
grottoes in Edmondson county besides Mammoth Cave, the 
noblest specimen of them all. Several of these have 
gained a measure of local celebrity, but only a few of 
them need be mentioned here. 

Salt Cave, near to the Mammoth Cave, and belonging 
to the same proprietors rivals it in the magnitude of some 
of its avenues, for the exploration of which about twelve 
hours arc needed. It is difficult of access, however, .on 
account of the loose and jagged rocks that have fallen 
from the roof; and being a dry cave, without any spring 
or pool, water for the trip must be carried in canteens. 
Its especial attraction is for the archaeologist, as it abounds 
in relics of prehistoric occupancy, such as fire-places, 
torches, piles of faggots, cast off sandals, and numerous 
other things described more fully elsewhere. 

Short Cave, noted for the mummies found in it, in 1813, 
that were afterwards transferred to Mammoth Cave ; Long 
Cave, rich in niter beds ; Proctor's Cave, the Diamond 
Cave, and others in the vicinity have their admirers. But 
the general feeling was well expressed by one of the na- 
tives who said to me, thiit " to go from any other cave to 
Mammoth Cave, was like going from a log-cabin to a 
palace." 

More particular mention, however, should be made of 
the White Cave, about half a mile from Mammoth Cave, 
of which it is thought really to be an arm. The exact 
l>oint of communication has not 3^et been found, but is 
supposed to be with the extremity of either the Little Bat 
Room, or of Audubon Avenue. It is well worth visiting 
both on account of the beauty and variety of its stalac- 
tites, and for its interesting paleontological contents, Pass- 
ing through an iron gate, we first enter an oval chamber, 
irregular in contour, with a low roof and a muddy floor. 
In a second room we find a fine piece of stalactitic drapery 
called the " Frozen Cascade ; " the roof is decked with 



14 Celebrated American Cacirns. 

pendents of all sizes ; and tlie floor is cut by very crooked 
channels, the rills in which arc so transparent as to be al- 
most invisible. IIiinil)()ldt"s Pilhir is a stately shaft of 
alabaster. In a third and larger room liuge masses of 
limestone have fallen, around which nature has kindly 
drawn curtains of alabaster, rudely broken through liere 
and there by explorers trying to force their way to regions 
beyond. Bishop's Dome is the tarthest point yet 
reached, a deeji pit with ornate walls, into whose depths 
Eddie Bishop, for whom it is named, alone has thus far 
descended. 

Some seventy years ago, a certain Mr. Clifford, a Ken- 
tuckian, exhumed from the floor of the White Cave a num- 
ber of huge fossil bones, that, after passing through various 
hands, Anally came into the possession of the Academy of 
Natural Sciences at Philadelphia. These curious bones, 
as described by Dr. Richard Harlan, were relics of the 
megalonyx, the bear, bison, and stag. With them, but of 
a presumably later time, were found a few liuinan bones. 
These remains seemed to belong to the same era as those 
found in the Big Bone lick. "Strictly speaking," ob- 
serves Dr. Harlan, " these bones were not fossilized ; they 
retain a very considerable quantity of animal matter, but 
are more brittle and are lighter than recent bones ; most 
of the articulating surfaces are still more or less covered 
with cartilage. The bones are mostly of a yellow ocherous 
coh^r, and it is stated tliey were found on the surface of 
the floor of the cave." The entrance to the White Cave 
dips below the horizon, and was originally so small as to 
admit of the ingress of but one person at a time. My 
theory is tliat the animals whose bones were here found 
must have fallen through a sink-hole near by. 

The location of Mammoth Cave is exactly 37° 14' X. 
latitude, and 8G^ 12' W. longitude. It is easily reached 
by trains on the Louisville and Xashville Railroad, passen- 
gers .being transferred at the Glasgow Junction to the 
Mammoth Cave Railroad runniug to the margin of the 



Mam I not]) Cave. 15 

park in front of the hotel ; a decided improvement on the 
old line of coaches that used to wind in and out umono^ 
the sink-holes. 

The hotel register shows an aggregate of from 4,000 to 
6,000 visiters a year. Many of these come from the North, 
and a few from various parts of Europe, drawn by their 
curiosity to behold this far-famed locality. The majority, 
however, are from Louisville, Nashville, Memphis, New 
Orleans, and other cities of the Sunny South ; and he who 
wishes to meet the best types of southern society, will be 
sure of finding them here. 

The spot is a charming resort, aside from its peculiar 
attraction — the cave. The region around it is a hunter's 
paradise, in which quail and grouse abound, and not a fcAv 
wild turkeys and deer. The grounds have been laid out 
with taste, ornamental shrubbery being interspersed among 
ancient oaks, over-shadowing a well-kept lawn. Exten- 
sive gardens supply the hotel with fresh vegetables of 
every kind, and the table is furnished amply with whatever 
the season and the market may afford. 

The hotel itself is an architectural curiosity. The origi- 
nal cabin, built by the miners in 1312, still stands and is 
used as a wash house. Next came a more stylish log-house 
with a wide hall between two large rooms. As visitors 
multiplied the cabins also multiplied, until they stood in a 
long row. These isolated structures Avere, at a later day, 
connected with each other and weather-boarded, the halls 
and rooms remaining unchai>ged. Then a spacious frame- 
house was erected in front, with offices, parlors, ball-room, 
and other appointments in modern style. Finally wide 
verandas were added, having about 600 feet of covered 
portico. The structure thus evolved from a log- cabin 
germ, is shaped like the letter L, and a more airy, delight- 
ful place can not be found in the State of Kentucky! 
Loitering amid the long colonnade, on the evening of our 
first arrival, we looked out between the tall white pillars, 
and the night-air floating through the noble grove of aged 
oaks and across the blue-grass lawn, seemed redolent of 



16 Celebrated Amenean Cue cms. 

romantic associations. How many tliousancls of tourists, 
savants, and lovers have liere strolled in the moonlight 1 
At 11 P. M. the bund left the l)all-r()()ni lor the veranda, 
and, according to their cnstom, gave the signal for retiring 
by i>laying "Home, sweet home;" and the next morning, 
at six, the same musicians awoke ns by playing " Dixie " — 
that tune dear to every Southern heart ! 

The convenience of visitors is consulted by the establish- 
ment of two principal lines of cave exploration, designated 
as the Long Route and the Short Route the fees for which 
are, respectively, three and two dollars, including the 
services of a competent guide, with lamps, fire-works, and 
all essentials. Special terms are made for tourists 
wishing to make a leisurely exploration, and also for large 
parties. Facilities are likewise furnished, if desired, for 
visiting "White's Cave, and other caves in the vicinity. 

It should be added, to correct an erroneous impression, 
that while guarding their property rights, the management 
of the cave has always encouraged scientific investigation. 
Xo restraints were laid on the members of the American. 
Association, Avhen they visited it, at the close of the Cincin- 
nati meeting, except those heartily approved of by them- 
selves. And I take this opportunity of expressing my ap- 
preciation of the aid given mc by the present and the former 
manager, and of the faithful assistance rendered by the 
guides in my explorations. 

Regular hours are fixed for entering the cave, and 
all needed attentions are paid to the general conven- 
ience of the guest. At the lamp-cabin, as the hour ap- 
proaches, the guides may be seen trimming their lamps, 
and preparing the outfit of the visitors whom they are to 
escort. The lamp used is a simple aflair for burning lard- 
oil, and swings from four wires twisted into a handle, with 
a tin shield to protect the hand. Each visitor is expected 
to carry one of these lights, but it is not given to him till 
he enters the cave. 

The guide's appearance is unique as he stands ready for 
duty. Xo uniform is worn, but each, white or black. 



Mammoth Cave. 



17 



dresses according to his own taste. The bnnch of lamps, 
sometimes strung on a stick if there are many of them; 
the flask of oil swung by the side ; the oddly-shaped bas- 
ket carried on the other side, containing an assortment of 
chemicals for illuminating the larger rooms, together with 
any thing else that may be needed — makes a queer tout en- 
semble. 

At the ringing of a large bell the party to go in on that 
trip gather in the garden, clad in any dress that suits the 
wearer; the ladies often donning a gymnastic dress 
trimmed, perhaps, with spangles and tiny bells; while 
easy shoes, close-titting caps, and a comfortable temper are 
desirable for all. 




31att., the Guide — Mammoth Cave. 

The entrance to Mammoth Cave is reached by a shady 
path down a wild ravine, and is about 300 yards from the 
hotel on the bluflE*. Another hotel stood, formerly, in front 
of the entrance, but it was burned about fifteen years ago, 
and the scorched trees carrv the scars of the fire. A plat- 



18 Celebrated American Caverns, 

form has been leveled off" and furnished with rustic scats, 
■where, on the hottest days of mid-snnmier, one may enjoy 
refreshing coolness. It is 118 feet below the summit of 
the bluif, and 104 feet above the level of Green river, 
which flows along at the distance of about half a mile, and 
furnishes excellent boating and fishing for those who are 
fond of such sport. The waters of this stream are remark- 
able for issuing mainly from caves ; for which reason they 
arc never frozen, even in the coldest winters, and are a 
refuge for steamboats and other craft, when the Ohio is 
obstructed by ice. 

The air,, as well as the water, of the cave is of uniform 
temperature the year round. The mercury in the set of 
Smithsonian thermometers kept at the hotel, may have 
indicated 100° when you began your walk down into this 
shady dell, but at the cave's mouth it falls to 06° at noon, 
and 65° at night, with very little regard to what kind of 
weather the rest of the world is having. Stand on this 
bench of stone and lift your hand above your head, and 
there you will find tlie fervid heat again. The current of 
cold air may be traced for a long distance "before it min- 
gles with the mass of common atmosphere. Within the 
cave, as we shall have occasion to observe, the temperature 
is several degrees lower than at the mouth. 

As I have already remarked, the ancient outlet of the 
subterranean region before us was through what is now 
known as Dixon's Cave. A small opening on our left as 
we stand facing the present entrance, points in the direc- 
tion of Dixon's Cave, but the guides say there is no open- 
ing through, although persons in one cave can make them- 
selves heard in the other, as was proved by the miners in 
1812, whose picks could be heard as stated. 

Mammoth Cave has a noble vestibule! Amid tulip 
trees and grape-vines, maples and butternuts, fringing 
ferns and green mosses, is the gate-way to this under- 
ground palace. The fingers of a rippling rill pried the 
irocks apart, perhaps ages ago, and when the roof fell in, 
tins chasm that we see remained. The rill still runs, and 
from a frowning ledge above it leaps fifty feet to the rocks 



31ammoth Cave. 19 

beJow, tviiero it instantly disappears as if its work were 
done. The aroli lias a span of seventy feet, and a winding 
flight of seventy stone steps conducts us around the lovely 
cascade, into a roomy ante-chamber under the massive 
rocks. 

The prevailing coolness and uniformity of temperature 
led the late Dr. Croghan to excavate a deep hollow here to 
serve as an ice-house. 

The passage-wa}' suddonh' grows very narrow, at a point 
about 300 feet within, and here there is an iron gate made 
of rude bars crossing each other. This was built by Capt. 
W. S. Miller, in 1874, as a safeguard against secret sur- 
veys, spoliation, and the escape of fugitives from justice. 
Each guide carries a key, and the gate is unlocked and 
locked again for every party that may enter. 

The current of air that had already been quite noticea- 
ble, increases to a gale as we cross the portal, so strong 
indeed that our lamps are blown out. This phenomenon is 
due to several causes operating together. The most ob- 
vious one is the difference of temperature between the air 
within and that without. During most of the year in this 
bland climate the outside air is warmer than that of the 
cave, and therefore the current is outward. But when it 
is otherwise, the current is reversed and blows into the 
cave. It is not necessar}^ to assume the existence of some 
lower opening as a cause for a ventilating current; yet, if 
there are such openings, they may help to keep the air in 
motion. 

Prof. Silliman, who visited the cave in 1852, oifered still 
another explanation. Regarding the mouth of the cave 
as the only communication between the external air and 
the vast labyrinth of galleries stretching away for miles in 
the limestone, he accounts for the purity of the air on 
chemical principles. Calling attention to the incredibly 
extensive niter beds, he says: "The nitrogen consumed 
in the formation of the nitrate of lime must have its pro- 
portion of free oxygen disengaged, thus enriching this 
subterraneous atmosphere with a larger portion of the ex- 
hilarating element." The result would be that the cave- 



20 Celebrated American Caverns. 

air, being both more pure and more dense than that out- 
side, would expand and flow outward whenever pressure 
was lifted by a rise of temperature above its own, which 
remains constant. 

The word for cave, botli in Latin and Greek, signifies 
" a brcatJiing-pIace" as if these places were the mighty 
lungs of Mother Earth, through whicli she inhales and 
exhales the vital air. The classic fable of yEolus also 
comes to mind, in wliich the god of storms is represented 
as confining all the winds in a vast cavern, where he has 
his throne.* 

The current of air dies down, as we advance, and only 
a few yards beyond the Iron Gate we have no difficulty in 
relighting our lamps. Here we catch the last glimpse of 
daylight shining in through the entrance, and all that lies 
beyond us is in absolute darkness. A strange sensation is 
usually felt by the visitor at this point, and occasionally 
one is found who shrinks back from the journey he has 
undertaken. The story is told of a Scotchman who had 
come to America as a toiTrist, led to do so by the hope of 
seeing the great cave, as a special object of attraction ; but, 
when he reached this spot, and found to his surprise that 
it was dark in the cavern, he positively refused to enter! 

Most visitors, however, find a certain romantic charm 
on entering these regions of perpetual silence, where the 
pleasing alternation of day and night is unknown, as is 
also the change of the seasons, summer and winter being 
alike, and vernal and autumnal airs the same. "NA^hatever 

* There are many "blowing caverns" in existence, and in some of 
them the blast is marvelous and inexplicable. I find the following 
statement in Johnson's Physical Geography, though I do not vouch 
for its correctness: "From a blowing cave in the Alleghany moun- 
tains, 100 feet in diameter, the current of air is so strong as to keep 
the weeds prostrate to the distance of sixty feet from its mouth. But 
the most extraordinary example is the great cave of Ouybe, of un- 
known extent, in central Asia. The tempests that rush from it are 
sometimes so violent as to carry off every thing on the road into an 
adjoining lake! The wind coming from the interior of the earth is 
said to be warm in winter, and so dangerous that caravans often stop 
for a whole week till the tempests have subsided!" 



Mammoth Cave. 21 

tremendous energies may once have Imrled the loose rocks 
to the floor that now lie scattered around, no convulsion 
has disturhed the strata forages, and there is no safer place 
above ground than is here below. The loudest thunder- 
storm may roll across the heavens, but its din does not in- 
vade the profound (xuiet of these deep vaults. 




OULOPHOT.TTES, OR CuRVED CRYSTALS OF GtpSTIM. 



CHAPTER III. 

The Main Cave — The Narrows — Saltpeter Works — Hotunda — Audu- 
bon's Avenue — Bat Rooms — Skeletons — Temperature of Mammoth 
Cave — Kentucky Cliffs — Methodist Church — A Subterranean Sermon 
— Standing Rocks — Grand Arch — Watei'-clock — Wandering Willie's 
Spring — Grotesque Fancies — Giant's Coffin — Acute Angle — Rude 
Monuments — Stone Cottages^A Strange Sanitarium — Star Chamber 
— A pleasing Incident — Salts Room — Proctor's Arcade — Kinney's 
Arena — Wright's Rotunda — Black Chambers — Cataracts — Solitary 
Chambers — Fairy Grotto — Chief City — St. Catherine's City — End of 
Main Cave. 

Whatever route one takes, he must traverse for a longer 
or shorter distance, what is fitly designated as the Main 
Cave, because it is like a great trunk, from which the 
avenues seem to branch. I shall, therefore, devote this 
chapter to its description, together with some of the less 
frequented places not now included in any regular route. 

For perhaps fifty yards, after leaving the Iron Gate, the 
way lies under a low ceiling, and is walled in by fragments 
of rock piled up by the miners. Beyond the Xarrows, as 
this passage is called, and where the way grows wider, 
there is a well-marked cart-road, and places where the 
oxen were tied up to be fed, corn-cobs also lying scattered 
around. The carts could not have been driven in through 
the N^arrows, but were brought in piecemeal and put to- 
gether again inside. The oxen, likewise, were unyoked 
and led in singly. Wooden pipes are laid in the earthen 
floor, each being about 20 feet long and 10 inches in di- 
ameter, bored lengthwise and joined together by iron 
bands. Such of them as were for conveying water into 
the cave are decayed badly, while those used to conduct 
the alkali out to the boilers are in excellent preservation. 



3fammoth Cave. 23 

Suddeuly the roof lifts above our heads, and we are in 
the Eotunda, located, it is said, directly under the dining- 
room of the hotel. On our right are three huge vats, 
built of oak plank, and partly full of nitrous earth. The 
tall frame that once held the pump is now made useful for 
holding any superfluous wraps we may feel like leaving — 
for it is not well to be too warmly clad. 

The area around us, including about half an acre, is rug- 
ged with heaps of rubbish that might have been leveled 
long ago, had it not been for their flavor of antiquity, and 
the guide's satisfaction in telling visitors that " these piles 
of lixiviated earth are monuments of the War of 1812 ! " 

Looking aloft, we are impressed with a sense of the mag- 
nitude of the room we have entered, but, when we come 
to figures we miss the accustomed objects of comparison. 

" Guess how wide this chamber is ! " says the guide. 

One thinks it can not be less than 150 feet ; another says 
200 or 250 ; and yet another is sure it is fully 300 feet. 

" Guess how high it is ! " 

We look up to the dim ceiling and estimates vary again. 
To one it seems 50, to another 80, to a third, 100 feet high. 

The lack of charity shown for errors in guesswork is 
sometimes very amusing to one who has used the tape- 
line in underground surveys, and knows how easy it is to 
be deceived in me^e estimates of distances. The atmos- 
phere of the cave is optically pure ; i. e. no motes nor dust 
floats in it, and therefore the rays of light are not distrib- 
uted as in ordinary air; while at the same time, as it is 
also chemically pure, the lamps burn very brightly. This 
combination of causes leads to a confusion of ideas as to 
the nearness or remoteness of objects. 

Apply the tape-line to those two arches that open out 
from the Rotunda. One is found to have a span of 46, and 
the other of 70 feet! Our path lies through the latter, 
but let US make a brief digression into the other that 
trends away to the right. 

This is Audubon's Avenue, so named in honor of the 
famous naturalist. It used to be called Big Bat Room, 
and the branch from it, running to Crevice Pit, was called 



24 Celebrated American Caverns. 

Little Bat Room — a title tliat clings to it yet. Here myr- 
iads of bats take up tlieir winter quarters, congregating 
for the purpose from all the region around. Deposits of 
bat-guano abound, and this is supposed to be connected 
with the quantities of nitrous earth, which is richest here. 
!N^ot a stone in these two rooms but what has been upturned 
for "peter-dirt;" and one can not refrain from admiring 
the energy and diligence of those old-time minors. Au- 
dubon's Avenue, as measured by me, is throe quarters of 
a mile long, to where it ends in a group of stalactites. It 
is seldom visited. 

The miners are said to have exhumed two skeletons, in 
1811, in the Eotunda, at the entrance to Audubon's Ave- 
nue: one, that of a child; the other of a giant seven or 
eight feet in height ! Mr. Gorin, as quoted by Dr. For- 
wood, states positively, that " no mummies were ever found 
in Mammoth Cave; and that no bones, either human or 
of the lower animals, except the two skeletons already 
spoken of, were ever found therein." 

Before proceeding further, it may be as well to speak of 
the temperature of Mammoth Cave. It has l)ecn roughly 
estimated that twelve million cubic yards of limestone 
have been displaced by this immense excavation ; and 
the importance occurred to me of ascertaining exactly 
the temperature of such a body of .subterraneous air. 
On inquiry I learned that this had never been accurately 
done. 

Hence I made a series of observations in 1878, that sat- 
isfied me of the need of still more careful work. Accord- 
ingly, in 1881, armed with two standard thermometers, 
one a Casella from the Kew Observatory, England, and 
the other a Green from Winchester Observatory at Xew 
Haven, Conn., I took a number of observations with the 
utmost care. Among my conclusions were the following : 
That the highest degree reached at anytime in any part 
of Mammoth Cave is 56° Fah.; and the lowest 52P Fah. : 
the mean for summer being 54°, and for winter, 53°. The 
latter is probably the true temperature of the earth's crust 
in the rearion where this cave is located. 



Mammoth Cave. 25 

The above conclusions are confirmed by the readings of 
an ordinary thcrnioracter placed by Mr. Klett in the Ro- 
tunda and loft there till it was, so to speak, acclimated. 
This gentleman reports, as the result of almost daily in- 
spection by himself or the guides, that during the period 
of six months, the mercury did not rise above 54° nor fall 
below 5-3° Fall., the fair inference being, that there was 
not, at any time, a variation of more than one degree \^ 

At a point some distance beyond the Rotunda, and ex- 
actly half a mile by my pedometer, from the top of the 
hill, the guide calls our attention to a shelf of rock on the 
left, and informs us that there is the entrance to " The 
Corkscrew." This is a short-cut by which visitors, on re- 
turning from the Long Route, save themselves a mile or 
two of traveling. 

Advancing in the Main Cave, we pass under over-hang- 
ing ledges called the Kentucky Cliffs, and about four feet 
from the floor we examine a cluster of little openings, like 
pigeon-boxes, that show the peculiar action of the water 
by which they were eaten out. 

We next come to the Methodist Church, about eighty 
feet in diameter and forty feet high, where those ancient 

*As this is a matter that has been under dispute, former observations 
by scientific observers having agreed on 59° Fah. as the correct temper- 
ature, I give below a table of my main observations, which were most 
carefully made with practically perfect instruments, on the 13th, and 
lath days of August, 1881 : 

At the hotel on the hill the mercury indicated 92 deg. Fall. 

At the mouth of the cave (at noon).. 65;^ •' '• 

(7P.M.) 60 " 

At the Iron Gate, 100 yards within, where the current is strongest 52'^ " " 

In the Rotunda (1.000 yards within) 53 " " 

In Audubon's Avenue 54 " " 

In Little Bat Avenue 54 " ' 

In the Gothic Avenue (oldest and driest portion) 56 

In Richardson's Spring (in the water) 54 

In the Arched AVay 54^'^ " ■' 

At the Bottomless Pit (top) 54 ". 

" " (midway) 50 ■' 

,' •' (at the bottom) 53 " " 

In the Mammoth Dome (top, 250 feet above bottom) 54 " " 

" " (midway) 53;^-' " 

" " (bottom) 53 " •' 

At the Echo River (in the Avater) 55 " " 

" " (intheair) 56 " 

•' " (Mhcre it empties in Green River) 53 " ' 



26 Celebrated American Caverns. 

miners used to licai'the Gospel preached l)y itinerant min- 
isters, who sought their welfare. The logs that served for 
henches are still in position, and many a sermon has been 
delivered from the rocky pulpit since the days of the pio- 
neer worshipers. The writer can not soon forget a re- 
ligious service he liad the privilege of attending in this 
natural temple, one summer Sabbath. The band did duty 
as orchestra, the guests and guides were seated around the 
pulpit in decorous order, the servants from the hotel were 
a little in the back-ground, the walls were hung with a 
hundred lamps, and the scene itself was beautiful. Then 
the psalm arose, led by the instruments, and waves of har- 
mony rolled through those rocky arches till they died 
away in distant corridors. The text from which the cler- 
gyriian, himself a visitor, wove his discourse was peculiarly 
adapted to the place and the occasion : John xiv : 5, '■'■How 
can ice knon) the vn/?'^ 

For the next 150 yards the old cart ruts run between 
mountainous heaps of " lixiviated earth," and the hoof- 
prints of the oxen remain as if they had lately drawn loads 
to the hoppers. Here are more ruins of niter-works, eight 
huge vats, lines of wooden pipes, pump-frames, and other 
signs of former activity. What a busy set those old fel- 
lows must have been ! One can almost credit their boast 
that they could dig saltpeter enough from Mammoth Cave 
to supply the whole world. 

Leaving, for the present, the Gothic Galleries, where 
these ruins lie, we pursue our wa}^ under the Grand Arch, 
about sixty feet wide and fifty high, and extending for 
many hundred feet. On our left are the Standing Rocks, 
four in number, thirty feet long, and weighing may be 
twenty tons apiece. What a shaking there must have 
been when they fell from the lofty arch above and buried 
themselves in this upright position in the earthen floor ! 

New objects of interest meet us at every step, as we ad- 
vance. During a moment's pause we are startled by what 
seems the loud ticking of a musical time-piece. It is but 
the measured melody of water dripping into a basin hid- 
den behind the rocks. It is only a small basin, and the 



Jldiinnofh Cacc. 27 

drops fall but a few inches, yet such are the acoustic 
eflects of the arch tluit they can be heard for a long ways, 
as they monotonously fall, drop by drop, just as, perhaps, 
they have fallen for a thousand years. 

!N'ot far from this natural water-clock, is a symmetrical 
recess chisled by a tiny rill, whose limpid water is col- 
lected in a pool. The story is told of a blind boy who 
rambled over the country, winning a precarious living by 
his violin, and who, as he said, was resolved to see the cave 
for himself. He lost his way, and when found by his 
companions, was quietly sleeping beside this basin, which 
ever since has been called " Wandering Willie's Spring." 

Singular effects are produced by the devices of the 
guides. At certain spots wonderful shadow profiles are 
cast by the projecting buttresses. One long admired was 
that of George Washington. But it is now eclipsed by 
what is styled the bust of Martha Washington, which 
really is a magnificent illusion. The guests are stationed 
under the Grand Arch, and their lamps withdrawn. Then 
at a place 550 yards distant, the guide burns magnesium, 
he himself being out of sight, and the result is the remark- 
able effect described. What we behold seems to be a 
sculptured mass of Parian marble instead of simply a mass 
of white light amid the rocks. 

The incrustations of gypsum stained by the black oxide 
of manganese, seem to cut gigantic silhouettes from the 
ceiling of creamy limestone. At first we ridicule these 
fancies, but at last they fascinate us. Wild cats, buffaloes, 
monkeys and ant-eaters — indeed, a whole menasrerie is on 
exhibition, including the old mammoth himself, and Bar- 
num's fat girl. There is an especially fine side-show of a 
giant and giantess playfully tossing papooses to and fro. 

It is well to observe the large rock on our right very 
carefully, not only for the interest it excites by its singular 
resemblance to a mighty sarcophagus, but because the 
Giant's Cofiin, as it is called, is one of the most important 
land-marks in the cave. It equals in size one of the 
famous blocks of Baalbek, being forty feet long, twenty 
wide, and eight or more deep. Often as I have passed it, 



28 



Celebrated American Caverns. 



whether alone or with a linndred companions, it has ever 
been witli a feeling as if I had intruded into some sacred 
mausoleum. This ponderous rock hides behind it tiie 
crevice that, until recently, was the only known way of 
access to the wonderful region of pits, domes and rivers, 
that we are to visit another day. 




The Giant's Coffix. 



At a point 100 yards beyond the Giant's Coffin, the 
trend of the Main Cave turns upon itself at an acute angle, 
on the left, and sweeps around in a magnificent amphithe- 
ater on the right. This enchanting place should not be 
hastily passed. The efiTect of fire-works here is remark- 
ably brilliant, and the sublime scene thus illumined is one 
to be remembered long. 

The apex of the acute angle is marked by McPherson's 
monument, a rude pile of stones in memory of a gallant 
soldier. More than 300 such monuments have been erected 
in dififerent portions of the cave, in honor of various indi- 
\dduals, literary institutions, and the several States of the 
Union. Some of these pillars reach from floor to roof, 
each tourist who chooses to do so, adding a stone. An 



Mammoth Cave. 



29 



incidental benefit of the custom is that it has helped to 
clear the paths. 




A Strange Sanitarium. 

The roofless remains of two stone cottages are next vis- 
ited, as having a melancholy interest on account of their 
history. These, and ten frame ones, now torn down, were 
built in 1843 for the use of fifteen consumptive patients, 
who here took up their abode, induced to do so by the 
uniformity of the temperature, and the highly oxygenated 
air of the cave, which has the purity without the rarity of 
the air at high altitudes. The second stone house was a 
dining-room ; all the rest were lodging rooms, and were 
well furnished. The cottages were not all at this spot. 
One was about 100 yards within Audubon's Avenue ; in 
which a Mr. Mitchell, from South Carolina, lived for five 
months, and then died. lie was buried in the little ceme- 
tery nearthecavc, and his body was afterward taken away. 
The next cottage was near Wandering Willie's Spring. 
Still another was erected in Pensico Avenue. All the 
others, nine in number, stood in a line, about 30 feet 
apart, extending from the acute angle onward. The 



30 Celebrated American Caverns. 

experiment was an nttcr failure ; as Avas also the piti- 
ful attempt on the part of these poor invalids to make 
trees and shrubbery grow around their dismal huts. The 
open sunshine is as essential to rosy health as it is for 
green leaves. 

The salubrity of the cave, so far as its eftccts on the 
spirits and health of visitors are concerned, is decidedly 
marked. The air is slightly exhilarating, and sustains one 
in a ramble of live or ten hours, so that at its end he is 
hardly sensible of fatigue. In one of the earliest accounts 
of the cave, published in 1832, it is said that '" the niter 
diggers were a famously healthy set of men ; " and that, 
on humanitarian grounds, it was customary to employ la- 
borers who were in feeble health, " who were soon restored 
to good health and strength, though kept at constant la- 
bor; and more joyous, merry fellows were never seen." 
It certainly is noticeable that most tourists, whether it is 
due to the delicious air or some other happy cause, gen- 
erally mingle a jocund feeling with the awe and solemnity 
that one would suppose should be awakened by scenes so 
sublime. 

A strangely beautiful transformation scene is exhibited 
in the Star Chamber, a hall from 200 to 500 feet long (ac- 
cording to the place you measure from ), about 70 feet wide 
at the floor and narrowing to 40 at the ceiling, which is 
60 feet above our heads. The light gray walls are in 
strong contrast to the lofty ceiling coated with black gyp- 
sum ; and this, again, is studded with thousands of white 
spots, caused by the efflorescence of the sulphate of magne- 
sia. The guide bids us seat ourselves on a log bench by 
the wall, and then collecting our lamps, vanishes behind a 
jutting rock; whence, by adroit manipulations, he throws 
shadows, flitting like clouds athwart the starry vault. The 
eftect is extremely fine, and the illusion is complete. The 
ceiling seems to have been lifted to an immense distance, 
and one can easily persuade himself that l)y some magic 
the roof is removed, and that he looks up from a deep 
canon into the real heavens. 



jlLntnvnfli Cave. 31 

" Good night," sa js the guide, " I will see you again in 
the morning I " 

"With this abrupt leave-taking he plunges into a gorge, 
and we are in utter darkness. Even the blackest midniirht 
in the upper world has from some quarter a few scattered 
rays ; but here the gloom is without a gleam. In the ab- 
solute silence that ensues one can hear his heart beat. 
The painful suspense is at length broken by one of those 
outbursts of laughter that come when least expected ; and 
then we ask each other the meaning of this sudden deser- 
tion. But, while thus questioning each other, we see in 
the remote distance a faint glimmer, like the first streak 
of dawn. The light increases in volume till it tinges the 
tips of the rocks, like the tops of hills far away. The ho- 
rizon is bathed in rosy hues, and we are prepared to see 
the sun rise, when all at once the guide appears, swinging 
his cluster of lamps, and asking us how we like the per- 
formance. Loudly encored, he repeats the transforma- 
tions again and again, — starlight, moonlight, thunder- 
clouds, midnight and day-dawn, the latter heralded by 
cock-crowing, the barking of dogs, lowing of cattle, and 
various other farm-yard sounds ; until, weary of an enter- 
tainment that long ago lost its novelty for him, he bids us 
resume our line of march. 

It is doubtful if one visitor in fifty goes farther into the 
Main Cave than to the Star Chamber ; hut none fail to see 
this favorite hall of illusions. The path to it is dry and so 
Avell-trodden as to he quite dusty. 

A pleasing incident comes to mind, showing how easily 
it may be reached, although a mile under ground. One 
evening, after tea, I had entered thus far alone, without a 
guide, and after studying for a while the peculiar effects 
of light and shade, I sat down on the log bench and put 
my lamps out, in order to enjoy the luxury of darkness, 
silence, and solitude. But ere long voices were heard, and 
mysterious peals of laughter. Soon the day-dawn effect 
was unexpectedly produced, by the approach of a party 
of jocund youths and maidens, with lights, who, having 
dressed for a hop, first paid a visit to this enchanted 



32 Celebrated American Caverns. 

ground ; and, as cave dust never flies nor sticks, they did 
so without a speck on polished hoot or trailing robe. 

It may he "well to say here that the remainder of the 
Main Cave is one of the " Special Routes," and those who 
wish to visit it should make their arrangements for doing 
so at the start. 

As we pass along under a mottled ceiling that changes, 
from the constellation just described, to a mackerel sky 
with fleecy masses of floating clouds, many curious objects 
are pointed out to us. Here is a stout oak pole, project- 
ing from a crevice, now inaccessible — put there when, and 
by whom, and for what purpose? There are snow-drifts 
of native Epsom salts, whitening the dusky ledges. Spaces 
are shown, completely covered by broad slabs, under- 
neath which are the ashes and embers of ancient fires. 
Side-cuts occasionally tempt us from the beaten path, into 
which we return by a circuitous way. These are gen- 
erally short, though some of them are several hundred 
yards long. 

Proctor's Arcade, the next considerable enlargement be- 
yond the Star Chamber, is said to be 100 feet in width, 45 
in height, and three-quarters of a mile in length. Its pro- 
portion, are very symmetrical throughout, and Avheu illu- 
minated by blue lights, burning at several points, deserves 
the encomium pronounced on it by Dr. Wright, of being 
"the most magnificent natural tunnel in the world." 

Kinney's Arena is a hall about 100 feet in diameter, and 
50 feet in height. Here another stick in the ceiling is 
pointed out, concerning which there has been much spec- 
ulation. 

After passing the S Bend, which has no special points 
of interest, we enter a spacious chamber, thus described 
by Prof. C. A. Wright, in whose honor it is named : 

" Wright's Rotunda is 400 feet in its shortest diameter. 
The ceiling is from 10 to 45 feet in height, and is perfectly 
level, the apparent difference in height being produced by 
the irregularity of the floor. It is astonishing that the 
ceiling has strength to sustain itself." " When this im- 
mense area is illuminated at the two extremes, simultane- 



Mawmoth Cave. 33 

ously, it presents a most magnificent appearance." Nich- 
olas' Monument, named for one of the guides, stands at 
one end of this large hall, a column four feet in diameter 
and extending from the floor to the ceiling. 

In this part of the cave the path, which I have said was 
very free from incumbrances, grows extremely rough, and 
the floor is hut a bed of angular blocks, over which we 
make slow progress. We are willing to take the guide's 
word for it that Fox Avenue is worth exploring, and that 
various other spots arc curious or beautiful. 

"We clamber over the big rocks, however, to survey a 
mass of ruins known by the ominous name of the Black 
Chambers. The walls and ceilings are here completely 
coated with black gypsum. We find that the funereal 
darkness defies magnesium, and refuses to be cheered even 
by red fire. 

Crossing to the right hand side from these baronial 
ruins, we ascend through the Big Chimneys to an upper 
level, and, as we proceed, we hear the sound of a water- 
fall, which increases as we draw near, until we find our- 
selves at the Cataracts. 

I have never happened to see this spot except in a dry 
season, and then, although there is quite a cascade, there 
is nothing to correspend with the frightful torrents that 
are said to pour down after heavy rains, "with a roar that 
resounds afar, and seems to be shaking the cave itself from 
its foundations." The water, be it more or less, falls from 
large perforations over-head, and is instantly lost to sight 
in a deep, funnel-shaped pit. 

Ko creeping nor crawling has to be done in the Main 
Cave, the average width, throughout its entire extent being 
about GO feet, and its height about 40 feet ; the length is 
estimated at nearly four miles, of which we have, thus far, 
traversed less than half. 

For the sake of variety, let us digress to visit the Soli- 
tary Chambers ; to reach which we have to pass for per- 
haps 20 feet under a low arch. Pursuing our way across 
these lonely apartments, we finally, by dint of much crawl- 
in sr, arrive at the Fairy Grotto, once famous for its ten 



34 Celebrated American Caverns. 

thousand stalactites, as varied in form as the shapes visible 
in the kaleidoscope. Ruthless hands have marred this 
beautiful place, demolishing its exquisite creations, until it 
is difficult to realize the truth of the earlier descriptions. 

Entering the Main Cave again, near the Cataracts, we 
continue our walk, clambering over great masses of frag- 
ments, taking care not to break our necks, until we find 
ourselves beyond this rocky pass, and under the stupend- 
ous vault known as the Chief City. Amid its wonders 
we linger long. Bayard Taylor's estimate of this colossal 
room shows the vigor of his imagination : "Length, 800 
feet; breadth, 300 feet; hcighth, 125 feet; area, between 
4 and 5 acres ! " Another, whose imagination was still 
more lively, estimates the area at 11 acres ! There prob- 
ably are about two acres ; but the reader who has never ex- 
plored this underground realm, will fi.nd it tax his mind 
to realize how large even such an area would seem, clothed 
with eternal night, built in by walls of massive rock, and 
over-arched by so vast a dome as to make us hold our 
breath, lest if silence were broken it would fall. 

" Why doesn't it fall? *' I heard a timid visitor ask the 
guide. 

" I know of no reason why it should not fall at this very 
moment," said he, solemnly, " and I never come under- 
neath without some degree of fear. Yet the arch appears 
to be a solid, seamless block of limestone, and it may stand 
for a thousand years." 

Immense rocks are thrown about in the wildest confu- 
sion, and it is evident that mighty forces were once here 
at play. But all is quiet now, and the dust of ages lies on 
those huge blocks. The guide picks out from interstices 
between the stones, half-burnt bits of cane, which he as- 
sures us the red men used to fill with bear's fat and burn, 
in lieu of torches, to light them in their solemn councils, 
or during their search for hidden treasures of flint or 
alabaster. The fact that no weapons have ever been found 
here shows that the councils held were of a peaceful 
nature; and the absence of human remains proves that 
they were not here on a funereal errand. But certain it is 



Mammoth Cave. 35 

that Indian cliiefs saw this city centuries before we saw 
the light of day. It should be added, concerning the cane 
torches, that althougli now comparatively few, they were 
formerly so numerous as to furnish materials for hundreds 
of bon-fires by which the guides were accustomed to illumi- 
nate the mountain and the dome. Dr. Bird speaks (in 1837) 
of the supply as inexhaustible, filling the rocky crevices in 
" astonishing, unaccountable quantities." 

The stern features of the scene are best surveyed from 
the summit of a rugged ascent, called quite appropriately, 
a mountain. Here we sit, while, again and again, the 
guide lights red lire and burns Roman candles, and dis- 
charges rockets that find ample room to explode before 
they strike the far-distant walls. The probability is that 
electric lamps will be placed, at an early day, in these dim 
regions, and then every nook and secret recess will be 
brought into view ; but it is doubtful if the picturesque 
effects could be heightened beyond those now caused by 
the pyrotechnic glare that, as it flashes and dies away, over 
the long slope of irregular rocks, and athwart the gigantic 
vault, brings to view such glories as no torch-bearing 
mound-builder ever saw or dreamed of seeing. 

The majestic dome appears to follow us, as we retire 
from it, overarching us at every step ; as is the case with 
the sky, that bends the same canopy of blue above every 
meadow and valley, as the traveler moves from place to 
place. This phenomenon, first noticed by Mr. E. F. Lee, 
affords an impressive proof of its symmetrical proportions 
and vast dimensions. 

And while the crimson light stains the arches and pinna- 
cles, wc take leave, with many a backward look, of this 
prehistoric council-chamber of sagamores and dusky 
braves. 

Resolute pedestrians may cross the Chief City, and ex- 
plore St. Catherine's City — which presents few novelties — 
and then go on under overhanging cliffs, to a place where, 
beneath a ceiling about fifteen feet high, the cave spreads 
out to a considerable width, and curious botryoidal forma- 
tions grow. This branch ends in Symmes' Pit, a well 



36 



Celebrated American Caverns. 



thirty feet deep. Tlie Blue Spring Branch is a long pas- 
sage, with very rough going, that leads on to a place 
where the rocks fill the cave from floor to roof, hopelessly 
obstructing further progress. And this is the end of the 
Main Cave. 




Saltpeter Vats. 



CHAPTER IV. 

The Short Route — Gothic Gallery — Gothic Arcade — Mummies — An- 
cient Relics — Short Cave — Salt Cave — Haunted Chamber — Register 
Hall — Gothic Chapel — Aged Pillars — Romantic Marriage — Old Arm 
Chair — Main Cave Again — Deserted Chambers — Wooden-Bowl Room 

— New Discovery — Arched Way — Pits and Domes — The Labyrinth 

Side-Saddle Pit— Gorin's Dome — Putnam's Cabinet — Hovey's Cabinet 
— Bottomless Pit — Pensico Avenue — Scylla and Charybdis. 

The Short Roitte may bo taken either b}' day or by 
night, as suits the convenience of the visitors; but those 
coming for a brief stay prefer the latter, as it leaves the 
entire ensuing clay for the longer journey. The time re- 
quired is four hours; hence those who enter at 7 p. m. may 
expect to come out again by 11 p. m., and with no more 
fatigue than will insure a sound night's rest in a hotel 
where a mosquito never has been seen, and where locks 
and bolts are only ornamental. 

Passing without further mention points already de- 
scribed in the preceding chapter, we pause first at the 
Gothic Gallery. Here in the foreground are the old vats 
and pump-frames ; and a stairway beyond them leads io 
the gate of a long avenue we are shortly to explore. From 
this ample gateway a narrow gallery, or rocky ehelf, 
sweeps entirely across the Main Cave — really forming a 
bridge, whereby one might pass to the other side. Should 
he do so, he would find indications that this was once a 
continuance of the avenue, and both representing the 
highest level known in the cave. Taken as a whole, the 
amphitheater is a noble one, and 3'ou are not surprised to 
be informed thai here Edwin Booth once rendered selec- 
tions from the play of Hamlet, taking yonder rocky plat- 



ys Celebrated American Carerns. 

form on the right as his temporary stage. Fire-works are 
generally exhibited here, and to great advantage. 

Ascending the steps we enter the Gothic Arcade, and 
after proceeding ahont forty yards, our attention is di- 
rected to a niche in the left hand wall, which we are told 
is the Seat of the Mummy. The legend is that here were 
once found the dried hodies of a woman and a child, un- 
like modern Indians, and probably belonging to some ex- 
tinct and ancient race. Such conflicting statements have 
been published concerning these remains, that many have 
classed the " Mammoth Cave Mummy" with the numerous 
hoaxes with which ingenious perversity has amused itself 
at the expense of a credulous public. The facts are these: 

In 1813 a scientific visitor, probably Mr. Merriam, of 
Brooklyn, N. Y., saw what he mentions as " a relic of an- 
cient times, which requires a minute description." This 
description is substantially as follows: That some miners 
had exhumed a female body while digging saltpeter-earth 
in the Short Cave (not any portion of the Mammoth Cave, 
but a small cave in the neighborhood). The grave was 
covered by a flat rock, and contained the wardrobe, as well 
as the body of the woman. The latter was in a sitting 
posture, with the arms folded, and hands crossed and bound 
by a small cord. The inner wrapping was made of two 
deer-skins, closely shaved and ornamented witli vines and 
leaves marked in white. Xext came a woven sheet, in 
texture like fabrics made by the South Sea Islanders. 
The hair on the mummy's head was red and clipped Vvdthin 
an inch of the skin. The teeth were white and perfect; 
the nails long; the features regular; the color dark but 
not black ; the body free from blemish, except a wound 
between the ribs and an injury to one eye ; the frame that 
of a person about 5 feet 10 inches in height; the flesh 
hard and dry upon the bones ; and the weight, at the time 
of discovery, but 14 pounds, though it gained 4 pounds 
more by absorbing dampness. A knapsack, a reticule, and 
a pair of moccasins, all of woven or knit fiber, lay by the 
mummy's side. The articles contained in the reticule and 
knapsack were head-drossivs of feathers ; a cap of woven 



Mammoth Cave. 39 

bark ; several hundred strings of beads tied up in bunches; 
a iiofkhice of red hoofs of fawns; an eagle's claw and the 
jaw of a bear; folded skins of rattlesnakes; vegetable 
colors done up in leaves; bunches of sinews, thread, and 
twine ; seven needles (or awls) ; a deer-skin hand piece, to 
protect the hand in sewing; and two whistles of cane, 
bound together by a cord. After explaining that the cause 
of such perfect preservation was not due to any embalm- 
ing process, but merely to the antiseptic properties of the 
nitrous earth, combined with the extreme dryness of the 
cave, this writer concludes his ftiuciful description, by say- 
ing, " The features of this ancient member of the human 
fiimily much resembled those of a tall, handsome Ameri- 
can woman. The forehead was high, and the head well 
formed." 

This same mummy was found by Dr. Nahum Ward, of 
Marietta, 0., in 1815, in the Gothic Avenue (according to 
Mr. Proctor, a former proprietor of the hotel), and sent 
by him to the Antiquarian Society of "Worcester, Mass., 
where it now is. The gentleman to whom the credit of 
finding is really due, was Mr. Charles Wilkins, of Lexing- 
ton, Ky., one of the owners of Mammoth Cave. In a let- 
ter dated October 2, 1817, in reply to the inquiries of the 
secretary of the Antiquarian Society, Mr. Wilkins first 
describes the mummy of an infant about one year old, 
found in a cave about four miles from Mammoth Cave, 
and which, with its clothing, had been thrown into the 
furnace by the workmen. He regretted this so much as 
to offer a reward for the next that might be found. The 
result was the discovery, a month later, of the one that 
was afterwards sent to Worcester, His agent (^Nlr. Miller) 
sent for it and placed it, for safe-keeping, in the Mam- 
moth Cave, and quite possibly he laid it in the niche of 
the Gothic Avenue that is now pointed out ; but this 
is doubted by some. Wilkins, in a matter of fact style 
quite in contrast with the flowing sentences of Merriam, 
tells the same story, confirming the account of the uten- 
sils, ornaments, and articles of dress. 

Samuel L. Mitchill, M. D., of iTew York, also wrote to 



40 Celebrated American Caverns. 

the Secretary, giving an account of other mummie?^ from 
the caverns of Kentucky and Tennessee. His letter is 
dated, August 24, 1815, and is preserved m the published 
Transactions of the Antiquarian Society. He states that 
" In exploring a saltpeter cave near Glasgow, several hu- 
man bodies were found enwrapjled carefully in skins and 
cloths." He particularly describes one tliat had " a deep 
and extensive fracture of the skull, near the occiput, which 
probably killed him." 

In the Medical Eepository (vol. xviii, p. 187), is pub- 
lished, a letter from Mr. Gratz, one of the owners, accom- 
panying a parcel of curiosities sent to Dr. Mitchell, from 
which we may fairly conclude that, besides interlopers 
from Short Cave and elsewhere, there were genuine Mam- 
moth Cave mummies. Mr. Gratz says: 

" There will be found in this bundle two moccasons, in 
the same state they were when dug out of the Mammoth 
Cave, about 200 yards from its mouth. Upon examination, 
it will be perceived that they are fabricated out of dif- 
ferent materials; one is supposed to be a species of flag, or 
lily which grows in the southern parts of Kentucky ; the 
other of the bark of some tree, probably the pawpaw. 
There are also, in this packet, a part of what is supposed 
to be a kinniconeke pouch, two meshes of a fishing net, 
and a piece of what we suppose to be the raw material, 
and of which the fishing net, the pouch and one of the 
moccasons are made. All of which were dug out of the 
Mammoth Cave, nine or ten feet under the ground ; that 
is, below the surface or floor of the Cavern." Mr. Gratz 
also describes " an Indian bowl, or cup containing about 
a pint, cut out of wood, found also in the Cave;" and adds 
"lately there has been dug out of it the skeleton of a hu- 
man body, enveloped in a matting similar to that of the 
pouch." 

During the progress of the recent State geological sur- 
A'ey, Prof. F. W. Putnam, through his connection with it, 
was able to examine the archfeology of the various rock 
shelters and caverns of Kentucky ; and liis report was pub- 
lished in 1875, in the Proceedings of the Boston Society of 



Mammoth Cave. 41 

Natural History. He collated all known facts concerning 
the relics here mentioned; examined the celebrated mum- 
my in the museum at "Worcester, finding ample proof of 
the general correctness of the earlier accounts; and also 
exhibited exceedingly curious fabrics from Salt Cave, a 
small cave near Mammoth Cave, and belonging to the 
same proprietors. 

Indian fire-places, with ashes and embers remaining; 
imprints of feet shod with braided moccasons or sandles, 
as distinct as if made but a few days previous; numerous 
cast-off sandles, artistically braided from the leaves of the 
cat-tail flag; woven cloth, dyed with black stripes, and in 
one corner showing that it had been mended by darning; 
bunches of bark, and pieces of bark-twine and rope ; 
fringes and tassels of fibers ; wood cut by a stone, ax ; a 
few arrow-heads, and various fragments — these were 
among the curiosities found by Prof. Putnam in the Salt 
Cave. It is to be hoped that this enthusiastic lover of sci- 
ence may find his example of thorough research imitated 
by those who do not have to travel a thousand miles to do 
their cave hunting ! 

On the old maps of the cave the Gothic Avenue is put 
down as the Haunted Chamber, on account of an adven- 
ture that befell one of the saltpeter miners. The story runs 
that a raw hand disdained the guidance of an older work- 
man, and trudged off alone to dig his lot of " peter-dirt," 
and was forgotten by the other miners until dinner time. 
Then a few negroes, half-naked, as was their custom when 
working, started to hunt him up. The poor fellow had 
filled his salt-sacks and started back, but finding the way 
longer than it had seemed when going in, concluded that 
he was lost. In his fright he became thoroughly bewil- 
dered, and, to make matters worse, fell over a stone and 
put his lamp out. His sins came in remembrance, and he 
gave himself up to alternate frenzy and prayer. " It was 
at this moment," says Dr. Bird, who tells the story, " that 
the miners in search of him made their appearance ; they 
lighted upon his sack, lying where he had thrown it, and 
set up a great shout, which was the first intimation he had 



42 Celebrated American Caverns. 

of their approach. He started up, and seeing them in the 
distance, the lialf-naked negroes in advance, all swinging 
their torches aloft, he, not doubting they were the identi- 
cal devils whose appearance he had been expecting, took 
to his heels, yelling lustily for mercy. Nor did he stop, 
notwithstanding the calls of his amazed friends, until he 
had fallen a second time over the rocks, where he lay on 
his face, roaring for pity, and only by dint of much pulling 
and shaking was he convinced that he was still in the 
world and in the Mammoth Cave!" 

The Post Oak is a pillar about twelve feet high, bearing 
some resemblance to a trunk of a tree, and is formed by 
the meeting of a stalactite and stalagmite. It stands at 
the entrance of the Register Hall, on whose smooth ceil- 
ing hundreds of names have been inscribed in lampblack, 
before the rules of the cave had prohibited that cheap 
method of gaining immortality. As a substitute for this 
rocky album, convenient places are provided for visitors 
to leave their cards, which, in this extremely dry portion 
of the cave, will remain fresh and uninjured for many 
years. Thousands of cards, from all [)arts of the world 
have thus been left, and it aifords amusement to look over 
them. Here are also many memorial heaps erected by ad- 
mirers of celebrated persons, each pile having a sign to 
show in whose honor it stands, and by whom it was 
erected. 

On reaching what are called the Pillars of Hercules, the 
guide collects the lamps and arranges them with fine 
eflcct among the arches of the Gothic Chapel, which he 
then invites us to enter. The roof of this room, seems to 
rest on groups of stalagmitic columns, once beautiful, no 
doubt, but now sullied by sacrilegious smoke. I counted 
eiglit, and found fragments of thirty more of them. Their 
growth was slow, requiring centuries to develop their pres- 
ent dimensions ; but I can hardly accept the conclusion of 
Dr. A. D. Binkerd that 940,000 years were needed for 
their completion. It should be remembered that the rate 
of increment varies with changing conditions. Some of 
them are still dripping slowly, while others are perfectly 



Mammoth Cace. 43 

dry. Hence any estimate as to their ago in years is idle 
and frnitless. It is only certain that they are very old. 

Three pillars are so grouped as to form two Gothic 
arches, and heforc this unique altar once stood a runaway 
bride who had promised an anxious mother that she would 
'■^ never marry any man on the face of the earth," She 
kej^t the letter of her promise, but was married after all 
to the man of her choice, in this novel Gretna Green. 
Several romantic marriages have since been celebrated 
here. 

This entire avenue is more than a mile long, and 
abounds in grotesque curiosities. The Old Arm Chair is 
a stalagmite resembling the object for which it is named; 
and one of a lively fancy might say the same of the Ele- 
phant's Head. Other objects pointed out are Vulcan's 
Shop, the Lover's Leap, Gatewood's Dining Table, Lake 
Purity, and Xapoleon's Dome — grand in its symmetry and 
size. The avenue ends in a double dome and a small cas- 
cade. 

Ketracing our steps to the Main Cave, and proceeding 
as far as the Giant's Coffin, we leave it again, by a crevice 
behind that huge sarcophagus, and presently find our- 
selves in the Deserted Chambers, in one of which was found 
the wooden bowl mentioned by Mr. Gratz. The opening 
on the left is called Ganter Avenue for Mr. H. C. Ganter, 
whose skill and perseverance have made the passage avail- 
able. It is indeed a combination of avenues on three dif- 
ferent cave-levels, and it winds about in the most extraor- 
dinary manner. In ]\Iarch, 1891, it was surveyed by Mr. 
Ben Hains and myself, and found to be 8,500 feet long. 
There are at least 200 changes of direction, but the gen- 
eral trend is for the first 6,000 feet to the south-east, and 
thence to the westward for about 2,500 feet, to an opening 
into Serpent Hall, completely beyond the region of the 
lakes and rivers. The passage was formerly so very nar- 
row as to be impracticable for public use. But by ingen- 
ious engineering, Avidening certain crevices, and building 
stairway's of stone where needed, blasting away projecting 
rocks, etc., not only have several interesting rooms been 



44 Celebrated American Caverns. 

made aecessil)le, but what is far more important, a way of 
exit has l)oen secured from the remoter parts of the cave 
in case of a sudden rise in the subterranean streams. 

There is also another way out from tlie Wooden Bowl 
Room, by a stairway on the riii;ht, bearing the whimsical 
name of the Steeps of Time. Down this we go to a lower 
level, and proceed along the Arched Way, leading to a 
wonderful region of pits and domes. Early writers men- 
tion the finding of moccason tracks near a basin here 
called Richardson's Spring, where every body stops for a 
taste of the clear water flowing down from the rocks. 
Plodding quietly along for 150 yards, the guide suddenly 
cries, "Danger on the right!" Beside our path yawns a 
chasm called the Side-saddle Pit, from the shape of a pro- 
jecting rock, on which we seat ourselves, and watch with 
fearful interest the rolls of oiled paper lighted by the 
guide and dropped into the abyss. Down they go in a 
fiery spiral, burning long enough to give us a view of its 
corrugated sides and of a mass of blackened sticks and 
timbers sixty-five feet below, the distance being thus 
measured by a line and plummet. The opening is twenty- 
fiv^e feet across, and above it, or nearly so, is Minerva's 
Dome, thirtj'-five feet high. 

Descending a stairway, 50 yards beyond, we enter the 
Labyrinth,'^ a narrow, Avinding passage, barely wide enough 
for two persons to go abreast; and after climbing a second 
stairway and going down a third, and turning about till 
we are almost bewildered, we find ourselves peering 
through a window-like aperture into profound darkness. 
The gloom is intensified by the monotonous sound of drip- 
ping water that seems to fall from a vast height to a dis- 

*The original Labyrinth was near Crocodilopolis (Arsinoe), not far 
from the Lake Moeris, in Egypt. Herodotus describes it as "consist- 
ing of L,500 chambers excavated under ground, and as many above the 
surface, the whole inclosed by a wall." He explored a number of the 
mazes. Xo traces of it now exist. Perhaps filled up with sand. A 
second labyrinth was made in Tuscany, a third in Lemuos, and i» 

fourth in Crete. 

"As the Cretan labyrinth of old 
With wandering ways, and many a winding fold, 
Involved the weary fact without redress, 
In a round error wliioh dtMiied recess." — (Virgil's .Eneid.y 



mz^ 





The Labyrinth in. Mamnnoth Cave. 



1. WoodfU Bowl Room. 

2. Side Sa.ldk' Pit. 

3. Goriii's Dome. 

4. Putnam's Cabinet. 

5. Hovey's Cabinet. 
C. Ariadne's Grotto. . 



7. Bottomless Pit. 

8. Covered Pit. 

9. Scylla. 

10. Charybdis. 

11. Revellers' Hall. 



Mammoth Cave. 45 

mal deptn. The guide bids us stay where we are, while he 
goes to a smaller window still further on, through which 
he thrusts blue lights and blazing rolls, disclosing inde- 
scribable Avonders to our gaze Igniting magnesium (of 
which it is well to have a supply, as it is not furnished by 
the guides), we discern the floor far below us, about an 
acre in area, its general level about 90 feet lower than the 
window. A small pit in it leads to a body of water 12 
feet deep, making the total distance to the lowest point 
117 feet. The height of the vault over-head seems to be 
about 100 feet ; which gives 217 feet as the extreme alti- 
tude of this mighty chasm known as Gorin's Dome. It 
used to be called 500 feet high ; but as the distance from the 
surface to drainage level is now known to be only 328 feet, 
that fact eflFectually disposes of such exaggerated estimates. 
The perpendicular walls are draped with three immense 
stalagmitic curtains, one above another, whose folds, 
which seem to be loosely floating, are bordered with fringes 
rich and heavy. These hangings, dight with figures rare 
and fantastic, fit for Plutonian halls, were woven in !N"a- 
ture's loom by crystal threads of running water! 

Putnam's Cabinet, and ITovej-'s Cabinet, still further on 
m the Labyrinth, are smaller domes, where concretions 
known as cave-pearls, are found, and also some of the 
finest alabaster in the cave. Here, too, are specimens of 
oolitic limestone, which under the microscope has the ap- 
pearance of being made up of tiny eggs. The passage 
terminates in Ariadne's Grotto. 

On retracing our way out of the Labyrinth, we next 
come to the famous abyss known as the Bottomless Pit, 
above which expands Shelby's Dome. This frightful pit 
was long regarded as constituting an impassable barrier to 
further progress; but its terrors have been greatly over- 
drawn. The author of " Warwick, or the Lost l^ational- 
ities of America," makes his hero descend many miles into 
the Bottomless Pit, by the aid of Stephen the guide ! The 
depth of the chasm has ordinarily been given as more than 
200 feet. It is really a double pit, being nearly divided 
by a tongue of rock that juts into it for 27 feet; from the 



46 Celebrated American Caverns. 

point of which, in 1837, Steplicn tlircw a hidder across, 
and ventured into the unknown regions beyond. A sub- 
stantial bridge now spans the gulf, which, for safety is re- 
newed every four years. Leaning over the hand-rails, we 
safely admire the gleaming rolls as they whirl to and fro, 
slowly sinking till they vanish, lighting up, in their capri- 
cious progress, the wrinkles and furrows made by the tor- 
rent's flow during untold ages. Bringing the mysterious 
abyss to the severe test of line and plummet, we find its 
depth to be, on one side only 05 feet, and on the other 105 
feet. Shelby's Dome overhead may be GO feet high, and 
the space between 15 feet, thus making 180 feet the great- 
est distance from top to bottom of the entire, chasm. 

Reveler's Hall, the first room beyond the Bottomless 
Pit, is about 40 feet in diameter and 20 feet high, and was 
formerly a place where parties stopped to dine. The path 
to our left leads to the Rivers, which are reserved for 
another time. That on the right is Pensico Avenue, about 
a mile long, and containing various objects of interest. 
The Sea Turtle is the first of these to whicli our attention 
is called ; a rock fallen from the roof and shaped like the 
carapace of a huge tortoise, 30 feet in diameter. Wild 
Hall is next entered, where the great rocks are strewn 
about in the most amazing disorder, under a roof of elab- 
orate lancet arches. A low passage on the left, called 
Bunyan's Way, communicates with River Hall, but is sel- 
dom traversed, as visitors take the more direct path men- 
tioned above. Proceeding still through Pensico Avenue, 
we admire the snowy nodules incrusting the Snowball 
Arch, beneath which we go on to the Grand Crossings, 
where iov^v avenues meet. This place is much admired. 
The sami' is true of Mat's Arcade, 50 yards long, 30 feet 
wide ant? 60 high, where !Mat himself pointed out to us 
the series ^f cavern floors that had successively given way 
leaving four narrow terraces along the entire length of thc^ 
walls. A large white column is called, for some unknown 
reason, the Pine- Apple Bush. A little beyond this forma- 
tion is tho Hansrinor Grove, where the stalactites resemble 



Mammoth Care. 47 

branches of coral rather tlian those of trees. About a 
hundred yards on and we arrive at Angelica's Grotto, 
sparkling witli crystals. 

This is the end of the Short Route ; and here this chap- 
ter might also end, were it not that I wish to describe 
certain remarkable pits discovered, in February 1881, by 
Mr. J. T. Hill and William Garvin the guide. These are 
not ordinarily exhibited, on account of their dangerous 
surroundings; and, indeed, I was assured that I was the 
iirst visitor who had been permitted to explore the locality, 
though it had been seen by several persons connected with 
the Cave. 

The approach is by a low, creeping passage, opening 
from the Arched Way, and leading across what has for 
many years been known only to be shunned — the Covered 
Pit. This treacherous chasm is imperfectly concealed by 
loose slabs of limestone, between which tne black depths 
seem to be lying in wait for the heedless explorer. Cau- 
tiously crossing it, and crawling on our hands and knees 
for some distance further, we stopped, and William told 
me to listen to the slow dripping of a waterfall. Throvv'- 
ing a pebble in the 'direction of the sound, I could hear it 
bound from side to side as it descended, until, after a long 
interval, it fell into a body of water below. On examina- 
tion we found that we lay on a rocky partition between 
the old Covered Pit on the right, and a new one on the left. 
The latter proved to be a pit within a pit, as we found on 
throwing lighted paper down its mouth. The upper one 
is about 90 feet deep, and at its bottom we could just dis- 
cern the orifice of the lower one. 

I was anxious to find a point from which to examine 
this inner pit to better advantage. Creeping back from 
ofl' the partition, we made our way around a rocky pillar 
for perhaps 40 yards, and came upon the further edge of 
the pit that had excited our curiosity, and, also found an- 
other horrible pit on the left, separated from the first by a 
ridge only six feet wide ! The proximity of the two 
chasms suggested to Mr. Klett the names of Scylla for the 



48 Celebrated American Caverns. 

first, and Charybdis for the second ; in memory of the 
classic line : 

" Incidis in Scyllam cupiens vitare Charybdim." 
(You may fall into Scylla, trying to shun Charybdis.) 

Willing to rnn some risk to uccomplish my object, I 
clambered a short distance down into Scylla, to a ledge 
overhanging its very deepest portion, and cleft by a ser- 
pentine crevice about five inches wide. Dropping pebbles 
through this crack, we timed them as they fell unob- 
structed, and by repeated trials found the time taken in 
reaching the bottom to be exactly five seconds by the 
watch. This, by a well-known formula for calculating ac- 
celerated motion, would give 402 feet as the depth in vacuo. 
Making due allowance for the resistance of the atmosphere, 
and for the time necessary for the sound to return, the 
space passed was not less than 200, nor more than 250 feet. 
"William, not satisfied with scientific guess-work, produced 
his ball of cord, fastened a lamp to its end, and let it down 
into the darkness. The glimmering light served to show 
the irregular walls of the abyss, as it descended, until at- 
length it caught on a projecting rock. In his eftbrts to 
shake it loose, the cord was burned oft"; but the lamp re- 
mained where it had lodged, shining on as if determined 
to do its duty to the last ! The part of the cord that waa 
drawn up measured 135 feet, leaving us, after all, to con 
jecture the remaining depth. Probably the pit perforates 
the limestone down to the drainage level — a distance ac- 
cording to the barometer, of 220 feet. 

Glad to forsake the thin crust on which we stood, over- 
hanging such prodigious depths,weclimbedout of the jaws 
of Scylla, and made experiments on Charybdis. Here, 
again, the pebbles were five seconds in reaching the pool 
below. Along the perilous rim William led the way to still 
another chasm, which we identified as the farther edge of 
the Bottomless Pit. Regaining, not without some diffi- 
culty, the bridge over it, we proceeded a short distance on 
the path that leads to River Hall, and then turned back, 
by a passage under the rocks, to an opening into the side 
of the Bottomless Pit, about 40 feet below the bridge. 



Mam mot h Cacc. 



49 



Here we saw the famous pit in a now light, and also ob- 
tained the best view to be had of Shelby's Dome. The ac- 
companying picture of the Bottomless Pit was taken from 
this point of view. While we were standing there, on the 
occasion referred to, I noticed a volume of smoke issuing 
from a window be- 
yond us. Investi- 
gating this phe- 
nomenon, we found 
ourselves looking 
again into Charyb- 
dis, though not at 
its deepest part. 
The smoke came 
from the blue lights 
we had ignited just 
before leaving it. 

Thus, as we have 
shown, there are, 
within an area 
whose diameter 
does not perhaps 
exceed 600* yards, 
six of the largest 
naturally formed 
pits in the known 
world, besides sev- 
eral othersof small- 
er dimensions: and 
the entire group is 
joined together by 
connecting p a s s - 
ages. An inspec- 
tion of the accom- 
panying diagram The Bottomless Pit. 
(opposite page 45) will enable the reader to get an idea 
of this extraordinary locality. 

On inquiring of Mr. Klett if there was any sink-hole 
in the vicinity to correspond with this cluster of chasms, 




50 



Celebrated American Caverns. 



he directed me to a piece of unbroken forest, less than 
liulf a mile from the Mammoth Cave Hotel, where all the 
requirements of the case seem to be met. This vast de- 
pression embraces many acres, and is so deep that, when 
standing on its edge, one can overlook the tops of the 
trees growing in the central portion. It remains to be 
proved by further explorations whether there are any 
hidden tunnels of communication between it and the re- 
markable group of domes and pits I have been trying to 
describe. 




A Snow Cloud. (Seepage 59.) 



CHAPTER V. 

The Long Rouie^-Main Cave once more — Beyond the Pits — Fat Man's 
Misery — Bacon Chamber — Spark's Avenue — Mammoth Dome — 
Egyptian Temple — A Lamp Lost and Found — River Hall — Dead 
iSea — A Jolly Crowd Crossing the Styx — Lake Lethe — Echo River — 
Eyeless Fish — Subterranean Music — Silliman's Avenue — El Ghor — 
A Purple Vintage — Dinner in the Shade — A Crystal Paradise — 
Cleveland's Cabinet — Cave Flowers — Rocky Mountains — Croghan's 
Hall — The Maelstrom — A Daring Exploit — The Corksci'ew — Old 
Matt in Danger — Out of the Cave and under the Stars. 

Mammoth Cave has gaiued a reputation as a cave of 
" magnificent distances ; " and many a critical visitor has 
set himself to correct the over-estimates of others. Yet 
the fact remains that the Long Route is a day's journey 
under ground. The signal for starting is given at 9 
A. M., and the return is about 6 p. m., after nine hours of 
steady walking over a road, a little rough in spots, hut 
for the most part quite smooth and easy. I was one of " a 
rapid transit party," one day, that tried to see how quickly 
the trip could he made. Xone but fast walkers were in- 
cluded, and no stops were made, except at points of special 
interest; and the time consumed was just seven hours. 
Allowing, therefore, two miles an hour as the rate of travel, 
it follows that the Long Route is not less than 14 miles, 
nor more than 18; and this estimate may as well be ac- 
cepted until the distance is exactly measured. Long as 
the trip is few persons find it fatiguing, being sustained 
by the variety and novelty of the scenery, and also by the 
cool and pure air for which the cave is celebrated. 

Down the valley again, and under the thick horizontal 
plates of limestone, from whose green and mossy ledge the 
wild pattering rill falls on the rocks below ; on through the 



52 Celebrated American Caverns. 

Narrows, and tlie Rotunda, where perhaps a generation 
of dead mon sleep; climbing the piles left by the niter- 
diggers of old, or led by the musical ringing of the guide's 
footsteps on the hard rocky floor; between heavy but- 
tresses bending beneath the gray ceiling above, or walls 
hollowed into low-browed niches and nobler arches — thus 
we go through the wide and lofty Main Cave until the 
Giant's Coffin is reached. This rock was originally chris- 
ened the " Steamboat," and the early accounts explained 
the points of resemblance, and had poetical things to say 
about her "reposing in her river of stone." Creeping 
around her bows, we next descend into those dens of dark- ' 
ness, the Deserted Chambers, and soon hear the faithful 
guide call out '' danger on the right ! " Safely by the ter- 
rible pits, we pause to take breath, meanwhile blowing 
our lights out in order to prove by the "horror of a great 
darkness" what a blessed thing light is. Happy are we 
in the knowledge that the lamps are still near, and our 
pockets full of matches ! A brief imprisonment in an at- 
mosphere that seems to have been suddenly solidified to 
a mass of coal suffices, and we relight our lamps and 
march on. 

"March," however, is not just the right word; for 
progress now is by the Valley of Humility, a low passage 
four feet high, conducting us into the Scotchman's Trap, 
Avhere a canny Scot paused lest the broad rock, suspended 
by the tip, might fall and bury those venturing through 
the circular orifice beneath. Less timid than he, we dive 
down the trap-door, and presently are made acquainted 
with the famous and original Fat Man's Misery, of which 
all others are but base imitations. Some fastidious soul 
once tried to change this name to " the Winding AVay," 
but the attempt was a failure. Here the path enters a 
serpentine channel, whose walls, 18 inches apart, change 
direction 8 times in 236 feet, while the average distance 
from the sandy floor to the ledge overhead is but 5 feet. 
The rocky sides are beautifully marked with waves and 
ripples, as if running water had been suddenly petrified. 
There seems to have been first a horizontal opening be- 



Mammoth Cave. 53 

tween two strata, by taking advantage of which this 
singular channel was chiseled, from whose too close em- 
brace we gladly emerge into Great Relief, where we can 
straighten our spines, and enjoy once more the luxury 
of taking a full breath. The question is sometimes asked, 
" How fat a man is the fattest man that can get through 
the Fat Man's Misery?" Some reader may be comforted 
by learning that, in August, 1881, Mr. Abraham Meuks, a 
colored man from Lebanon, Ky., whose weight was pre- 
viously 282| i)0unds, succeeded in the attempt. He did 
without help till he came to the place where the floor 
comes up and the roof comes down, to bother tall men 
as well as fat ones, and then AVilliam, who is equal to 
any emergency, helped him through. 

"How did you manage it?" said a listener to the story, 
as it was told at the hotel that evening. 

" Easy enough," gravely answered the guide. " I took 
him through in sections." Meuks himself claimed to 
have lost 15 pounds in the operation, and the guides, 
to this day,, point out places where the rocks had to bend 
to let this jolly fat man through ! 

It was formerly supposed that if this passage were 
blocked up, escape from the regions beyond would be im- 
possible. But another mode of exit was discovered by 
"William, in 1871, through the Cork-screw. This intricate 
web of fissures was known as long ago as 1837, but not as 
a passage through to River Hall. In the oldest published 
accounts of Mammoth Cave it is stated that " among the 
Kentucky Cliffs, just under the ceiling, is a gap in the 
wall, into which you can scramble, and make your way 
down a chaotic gulf, creeping like a rat under and among 
huge loose rocks, to a depth of 80 or 90 feet — pro- 
vided you do not break your neck before you get half 
way." Since William made his way through, the obstruc- 
tions have partly been removed, so that now, by mounting 
three stairways, crawling through narrow crevices, and 
leaping from rock to rock, one may ascend for what would 
perhaps be a vertical distance of 150 feet, and thus reduce 
the journey from the mouth of the cave to Great Relief by 



54 Celebrated American Caverns. 

nearly a mile. Visitors who come in one way, generally 
go out the other, and regard the last route chosen the 
worst, whichever it may have been. 

The guide calls attention, as we now proceed, to the 
Odd Fellow's Links, and other concretions on the ceiling, 
which are caused by the wearing away of the more soluble 
limestone from around hard ridges of ironstone, leaving 
these emblems in bass-relief. 

Bacon Chamber is a still more striking instance of mim- 
ickry, for the masses of rock projecting from the ceiling 
certainly look like the rows of hams in a packing-house, 
and it seems as if nature must have made this chamber 
when in some jocose mood. 

Spark's Avenue runs from the Bacon Chamber to the 
Mammoth Dome, the most spacious of the many domes in 
this cave. As this is a " special route," I took my guide 
early one morning, long before the regular hour for par- 
ties to enter for the Long Route, meaning to complete the 
trip in time to join a large company of tourists from Xasli- 
ville, who were going beyond the rivers. My guide, on 
this occasion, was Tom Lee, and we were accomi^anied by 
Barton, the artist, whose pencil has furnished many of the 
cuts that embellish this volume. Leaving the latter to 
make a drawing of the Cork-screw, Tom and I entered 
Sparks' Avenue, which, as he told me, is named for Mr. 
C. A. Sparks, of New York. It begins well by an ample 
room named Bandit's Hall, where there is a wild confu- 
sion of huge rocks. Brigg's Avenue, to the right of it, we 
did not explore, though it is said to be of great extent. I 
also took for granted the " petrified saw-logs" in Clarissa's 
Dome, at the end of Sylvan Avenue, 100 yards on our left, 
after leaving Newman's Spine — a crevice where we have 
the privilege of straightening our own spines, after no lit- 
tle stooping. We finally emerged from Sparks' Avenue, 
and found ourselves on a terrace thirty feet long and fif- 
teen feet wide, confronted by a realm of empty darkness. 
Our lamps revealed neither floor, nor roof, nor opposite 
wall. And this is Mammoth Dome, the grandest hall in 
all this domain of silence and of night. I directed Tom to 



Mammoth Cave. 55 

leave me here, and to return for my comrade and for fire- 
works. 

Kot until Tom's glittering light was gone, and his re- 
treating steps had ceased to echo along the corridor, did I 
realize the utter loneliness that surrounded me. I sat on 
the edge of the terrace for a time, and amused myself by 
throwing lighted papers down, thus discovering that the 
floor was less than forty feet below me, and was accessible 
only by a rude ladder blackened with age. Here and 
there a rung was missing, and I hesitated to trust myself 
to such a fragile support. Retreating into the avenue, I 
whiled the time away by catching cave crickets, till Tom 
and Barton came with twenty lamps and a supply of red 
fire and bengolas. 

Carefully descending the treacherous ladder, which has 
since been replaced by a substantial stairway, we lighted 
up the huge dome, by burning magnesium at three points 
at once, and estimated its dimensions to be about 400 feet 
in length, 150 feet in width, and varying from 80 to 250 
feet in height. The floor slopes down to a pool that re- 
ceives a waterfall from the summit of the dome. The 
walls are curtained by alabaster drapery in vertical folds, 
varying in size from a pipe-stem to a saw-log, and deco- 
rated by heavy fringes at intervals of about twenty feet. 
A huge gateway at the farther end of the hall, opens into 
a room so like the ruins of Luxor and Karnak, that we 
named it the Egyptian Temple. The floor here is paved 
with stalagmitic blocks, stained by red and black oxides 
into a kind of mosaic. Six colossal columns, 80 feet 
from base to capital, and 25 feet in diameter, stand 
in a semi-circle, flanked by pyramidal towers. The ma- 
terial of the shafts is gray oolite, fluted by deep fur- 
rows, with sharp ridges between ; the whole column being 
veneered with yellow stalagmite, rich as jasper, and cov- 
ered by tracery as elaborate as Chinese carving. The cap- 
itals are projecting slabs of limestone, and the bases are 
garnished by mushroom-shaped stalagmites. The largest 
of them is Caliban's Cushion. By an opening behind the 
third column in the row, we clambered down a steep de- 



50 



Celebrated American Caverns. 



scent into o;l()()niy catacombs beneatli, which we did not 
lully explore for hick of time. Tom pointed out to us, on 
our way back to tlic terrace, an o[)ening overhead, and as- 
sured us that it was identical with the Crevice Pit in the 
branch of Audubon's Avenue, known as the Little Bat 

Room. 

In old times the 

miners, in searching 
for the best beds of 
saltpeter-earth, had 
the notion that 
there must be a 
very rich deposit in 
the Crevice Pit, and 
one of them, in ex- 
amining it, dropped 
his lamp. He climb- 
ed down into the 
ugly black hole, and 
tried to get his 
lamp again by feel- 
ing around with a 
stick. Suddenly 
the stick fell rat- 
The Egyptian Temple. tling down an abyss. 

A sprightly young negro volunteered to be let down at 
the end of a rope, as a sort of animated plummet, to sound 
the depth of the pit. The story he told, on being drawn 
up again, was so wonderful that nobody believed him, of 
a spacious and splendid room, far larger than the Rotunda. 
When Mr. Edmund F. Lee, a civil engineer of Cincinnati, 
made his survey of Mammoth Cave, in 1835, he tied a 
stone to a string and " struck bottom at 280 feet." As the 
real distance is less than 100 feet, the probability is that 
he paid out the rope after the stone rested ; or else that 
the stone rolled down toward the pool below, and was 
then drawn up and the whole length of cord taken as 
telling the dei)th. 

One of the guides named John Buford, while accompa- 




Mammoth Cave. 57 

nying a certain visitor named Smith, in 1843, discovered 
the entrance through Sparks' Avenue, to the immense 
room that was named, in honor of the explorer, " Smith's 
Mammoth Dome." On a subsequent visit, one of the 
guides — I think it was old Mat — found the miner's lamp 
lying on the floor where it had fallen thirty years before. 

It was time to return, if we were to carry out our origi- 
nal plan. On the Avay, Tom called our attention to cer- 
tain signs on the walls, by means of which the guides 
could tell their way, if they were at any time in doubt. 
Each guide has his own mark, and it is said that many a 
time, when one of the later ones has congratulated him- 
self on a new discovery, he has been chagriued by finding 
Stephen's or Mat's sign on the wall, showing a previous 
visit. 

On entering River Hall, we followed a path skirting the 
edge of clifts sixty feet high and one hundred feet long, 
embracing the sullen waters to which the name of Dead 
Sea is given. Descending a flight of steps, we came to a 
cascade, but a little further on, by some conjectured to be 
a reappearance of the waterfall at the entrance of the cave. 
It precipitates itself into a funnel-shaped hollow in a mas- 
sive mud-bank. On another visit, in 1881, we found a 
natural bed of mushrooms growing here, a species of 
Agaricus, that has suggested the idea of a mushroom 
farm, similar to those at Frepilon and Mery, in France, 
whence many thousands of bushels are sent to market an- 
nually. It is laid out in Audubon Avenue. 

Our various speculations were broken in upon by the 
hilarious sounds heralding the party under Mat's escort, 
long before they came in view. There never was a pret- 
tier sight than this merry company, sixty in all, as with 
flashing lamps and spangled costumes they skirted the 
somber terrace, astonishing the gnomes by " Litoria," and 
other jolly college songs. They wound past us, in single 
file, disappearing behind a wall of stone to come into view 
again on the natural bridge, whence they swung their 
lamps to catch sight of the River Stix, on whose banks 
we now were standino;. 



58 Celebrated American Caverns. 

The estimated length of the Styx is 400 feet, and its 
breadth abont 40 feet. It was formerly crossed by boat, 
before the discovery of the natural bridge, whence Mat's 
party are hailing us with invitations to join their number 
and go on. 




Crossing the Styx. 

Lake Lethe comes next — a body of water about as large 
as the Styx, and, like it, once crossed only by boat. It is 
now lower than formerly, being slowly tilled with mud, 
and a narrow path runs along its margin, at the foot of 
cliffs 90 feet high, leading to a pontoon at the neck of the 
lake. Crossing this, we step upon a beach of the finest 
yellow sand. This is the Great Walk, extending to Echo 
river, a distance of 500 yards, under a lofty ceiling mottled 



3Tammoth. Cave. 59 

with white aud black limestones, like snow-clouds drifting 
in a wintry sky. A rise of only five feet would completely 
cover this sandy walk, and this is its condition for frOm 
four to eight months in every year. The streams are 
usually low in summer, when there are also the most vis- 
itors — a fortunate coincidence. 

The connection of the cave rivers with Green river has 
been demonstrated by the simple experiment of throwing 
cliaff upon them, which comes to the surface in the upper 
and lower big springs; deep, bubbling pools, lying half a 
mile apart, under cliffs bristling with hemlock and pine. 
When these pools are submerged by a freshet in Green 
river, the streams in the cave are united into a continuous 
body of water. Tlie rise is augmented by the torrents 
emptied down through the sink-holes, and sometimes is so 
great as to touch the iron railing above the Dead Sea. 

The subsidence of so vast a body of water, although for 
some reason less rapid than of streams without, must be 
with powerful suction causing eddies and whirlpools. In 
order to save from destruction, at such times, the uncouth 
little fleet, built of planks and timbers, every piece of 
which was brought in through passes we had traversed 
with difliculty empty-handed, the boats are securely fast- 
ened, when not in use, by long ropes or twisted grape- 
vines that let them swim with the flood. 

The first persons that ever crossed the rivers were 
Stephen, the guide, with Mr. John Craig, of Philadelphia, 
and Mr. Brice Patton, a teacher in the Blind Asylum at 
Louisville. A number of blind men and women have, at 
different times, visited Mammoth Cave. Mat piloted four 
in one party in 1880. They took only the Short Route. 
They seemed much interested, and talked about what they 
had seen, and said that every thing was very fine! 

Four boats now await us on the banks of Echo river. 
Each has seats on the gunwales for twenty passengers, 
while the guide stands in the bow and propels the prim- 
itive craft by a long paddle, or by grasping projecting 
rocks. There is hardly a perceptible current at any sea- 
son when the stream can be crossed at all ; hence the inac- 



60 Celebrated American Caverns. 

curacy of pictures that represent the river as boisterous, 
and frantic oarsmen striving with might and main to keep 
the boat from shipwreck. And as the only gale in the 
entire cavern is that which blows out of its mouth, there 
is equal impropriety in a striking picture I have seen of 
saU-hoxxii^ on this unrufHed tide ! 

The low arch, only three or four feet high, under which 
we go at embarkation, soon rises to a height varying from 
ten to thirty feet, while the plummet shows a still greater 
depth below. The surface at low water is by the barome- 
ter but 20 feet above the level of Green river ; and this 
may, therefore be regarded as the lowest part of the cave, 
at least so far as it is accessible to visitors.* 

The width of Echo River varies from 20 to 200 feet, and 
its length is said to be about three quarters of a mile. 
Throughout its entire extent there are only one or two 
points where a landing could be made, and the stream can 
not properly be said to have any shore. Hence the guides 
exercise the strictest authority, in order to guard against 
accidents. 

Matt secures for our exclusive use a boat smaller than 
those into which the others crowd. He then draws from 
a hiding-place a hand-net, and tries to catch for us a few 
of the famous eyeless fish, that dart to and fro, but vanish 
on the least agitation of the waters. His success at this 
time was not very encouraging. But subsequently'', on 
other trips, we captured numerous specimens, from two to 
six inches long, and usually destitute even of rudimentary 
organs of vision. Several, however, had protuberances or 
sightless eyes, and one had good eye-sight. The grada- 
tions of color are from olive-brown to pure white ; while 
some are perfectly transparent. They have simple carti- 
lage instead of bones, and are destitute of scales. They 
are known to be viviparous, the young being born in Oc- 
tober, and without external eyes when born. There are 
also blind and white crawfish, that are oviparous, as is 
proved by a fine specimen now in my cabinet, which still 

*One authority makes the river 240 feet below the mouth of the 
cave, by barometric measurement. Others make it but 174 feet. 



Mammoth Cave. 61 

carries its cluster of salmon-colored eggs. The Cambarus 
and Amblyopsis have a wide distribution ; being found in 
many other caves, and also in certain deep wells, both in 
Kentucky and in Indiana. These, as well as other true sub- 
terranean fauna, maybe regarded as chiefly of Pleistocene 
origin ; yet certain forms are supposed to be remnants of 
Tertiary, and possibly of Cretaceous life. The stronglv 
marked divergence of cave-animals from those found out- 
side, convinced the elder Agassiz that they were especially 
created for the limits within which they dwell. But it is 
doubtful if there is more variability than can be accounted 
for by their migration, many generations ago, from the 
outer world to a realm of absolute silence and perpetual 
darkness. 

Along the water's edge are cavities, from a few inches 
to many feet in depth, washed out by the stream. These 
gave a wag along with the jolly Nashville party an oppor- 
tunity to break the silence that had settled over the voy- 
agers, and he shouted with absurd glee, pointing to the 
cavities : 

" Oh, see these little bits o' caves — three for five cents ! " 

The solemn echoes caught his silly tones, and bore them, 
as if in derision, hither and thither and far away. When 
the peals of laughter that followed had died away, a quiet 
lady in black velvet led the company in sacred song. The 
concord of sweet sounds was surprisingly agreeable. 

Allowing the Xashville party to go on without us, we 
remained alone on Echo river, floating over its strangely 
transparent water, as if gliding through the air, and trying 
every echo its arches were capable of producing. A single 
aerial vibration given with energy, as by a pistol-shot, re- 
bounded from rock to rock. The din awakened by dis- 
cordant sounds was frightful. On the other hand when 
the voioe gave the tones of a full chord seriatim, they came 
back in a sweeping arpcr/r/io. Flute-music produced charm- 
ing reverberations; and the cornet still finer effects. It 
should be explained that this symmetrical passage-way 
does not give back a distinct echo, as the term is commonly 
used, but a harmonious prolongation of sound for from 10 



62 Celebrated American Caverns. 

to 30 seconds after the original impulse. The long vault 
has a certain key-note of its own, which, when firmly 
struck, excites harmonics including tones of incredible 
depth and sweetness, reminding me of the profound un- 
dertone one hears in the music of jSTiagara Falls. 

An extraordinary result was ol)taiiicd by the guide's 
agitating the water vigorously with his broad paddle, and 
then seating himself :n silence by my side. The first sound 
that broke the stillness was like the tinkling of silver bells. 
Larger and heavier bells then seemed to take up the mel- 
ody, as the waves sought out the cavities in the rock. And 
then it appeared as if all chimes of all cathedrals had 
conspired to raise a tempest of sweet sounds. They then 
died away to utter silence. We still sat in expectation. 
Lo, as if from some deep recess that had been hitherto for- 
gotten, came a tone tender and profound; after which, 
like gentle memories, were re-awakened all the mellow 
sounds that had gone before, until River Hall rang again. 
Those who try their own voices are pleased to have the 
hollow wall give back shout and song, whimsical cry and 
merry peal; but the nymphs reserve their choicest harmo- 
nies for those who are willing to listen in silence to the 
voice of many waters. 

A rocky inlet receives our craft, and as we land we are 
greeted by the melody of a cascade that breaks itself into 
pearls on the sloping ledges. An avenue extends from 
Cascade Hall to Roaring river — a succession of shallow 
ripples and deep basins, navigated by a canoe. The pas- 
sage-way through which it flows has an echo of remark- 
able power, but hoarse rather than musical. 

"We overtake Mat's party in Silliman's Avenue, where 
the irregular floor, rugged walls finished by a well marked 
cornice, and sides pierced by cavities, show that we are 
now in a portion of recent formation as compared with the 
Main Cave, Among points of interest in this long avenue, 
may be mentioned the Dripping Spring, around which are 
grouped the first stalactites we have seen since entering 
River Hall. The scarcity of these ornaments in a cave so 
large as this has often excited remark. The explanation 



Mammoth Cave. G3 

probably is, tbat the massive limestone from whicli it is ex- 
cavated is almost completely covered by a bed of sand- 
stone, through whicli the water makes its way, not by per- 
colation, but through fissures and sink-holes. Hence the 
present dryness of large portions of the cave, and their 
lack of stalactites. The Infernal Region is the odious 
name given to a miserably wet and disagreeable spot be- 
yond the Spring, and it does not surprise us to have Ser- 
pent Hall come next, where the guide points out the trail 
of the reptile on the wall overhead. Here also is the inner 
terminus of the Ganter Avenue, that leads by a dry path 
back to the Main Cave. In a side-cut called the Valley 
Way, we find white masses of fibrous gj^'psum. Beyond 
the Hill of Fatigue stands the Great Western, like the 
stern of an immense ship, with its rudder to the starboard. 
We mount to a slender ledge between the Yale of Flowers 
and Rabbit-rock, and follow lihoda's Arcade for 500 yards, 
amid rare incrustations, to twin-domes, seldom visited be- 
cause so difficult of access. The one we enter is about 60 
feet in diameter, and opens into the other by a gothic 
window 150 feet above the floor. The guide climbs up to 
it, and burns magnesium, while w^e do the same below. 
Thus we are enabled to survey the long stalagmitic curtains 
that drape the sides, and to catch a glimpse of the oval 
apex, 300 feet, over us. This is Lucy's Dome — the loftiest 
natural dome yet discovered ! 

Silliman's Avenue (named for Prof. Silliman, of Yale 
College), ends in Ole Bull's Concert Hall, where the re- 
nowned violinist once gave a musical entertainment. 

Continuing our journey by a picturesque pass, known as 
El Ghor, we have successively brought to notice, the Fly 
Chamber, whose walls are singularly sprinkled with little 
crystals of black gypsum ; Suicide Rock, so-called " be- 
cause it hung itself;" Table Rock or the Sheep-shelter; 
the Crown, and other curiosities. Coriuna's Dome, 9 feet 
wide and 40 high, rests directly over El Ghor ; the Black 
Hole of Calcutta, is an ugly pit on the left of the pass ; 
while a narrow avenue further on leads to Stella's Dome, 



0)4 Celebrated American Caverns. 

250 feet high, and said to be very fine, though rarely vis- 
ited. 

El Ghor may be followed half a mile further, and is said 
to communicate with Mystic' liiver — on what authority I 
do not know, for none of the guides could give informa- 
tion concerning it. We leave the gorge at a small basin 
called Hebe's Spring, by climbing by a ladder up 20 feet, 
and going, one at a time, through a very uninviting hole 
in the roof; and thus we gain admittance to an upper tier 
of caverns. When the last man is through by burn- 
ing magnesium, we are surprised to find ourselves in a vine- 
yard — the famous Mary's (or Martha's) Vineyard! Count- 
less nodules and globules simulate clusters on clusters of 
luscious grapes, burdening hundreds of boughs and gleam- 
ing with party-colored tints through the dripping dew. i^o 
covetous hand is permitted to gather this marvelous vint- 
age. By a detour one may reach a natural chapel, named 
by an enraptured priest, the Holy Sepulcher; there are 
fine stalactites also in the vicinity. 

Leaving this enchanted ground we soon enter "Washing- 
ton Hall, which is but a smoke-stained lunch-room, strewn 
with relics of hundreds of dining-parties, while along its 
walls are the sharp fragments of numberless bottles that 
liave survived their usefulness. We find that servants 
from the hotel have anticipated our coming, and have 
spread for us an abundant meal. Vigorous exercise whets 
the aj^petite, and we leave but few remnants for the rats. 
Cans of oil are kept here, and while we dine the guides 
trim and fill the lamps. 

The ceiling of the next room is dotted with hemispheri- 
cal masses of snowy gypsum, each of which is from 2 to 
10 inches in diameter, looking like snow-balls hurled 
against the wall and sticking there. 

A charming special trip is from this point down Marion 
Avenue, said to be a mile and a half long. It is from 20 
to 60 feet wide, has a clean, sandy floor, and a clouded 
ceiling. At its farther end it has two branches. That on 
the left leads to Zoe's Grotto. The other branch leads to 



Mammoth Cave. g5 

a Paradise where all the flowers are fair and crystalline, 
and which, in the opinion of some of the guides, is the 
most heautifiil place in the whole cave. Portia's Parterre 
is of the same general description ; while Dighy's Dome is 
remarkable simply because it cuts through to the sandstone. 

The regular route takes us, however, next into that 
treasure-house of alabaster brilliants known as Cleveland's 
Cabinet. What words can picture forth its beauty? Im- 
agine symmetrical arches, of 50 feet span, where the fancy 
is at once enlivened and bewildered by a mimickry of 
every flower that grows in the garden, forest, or prairie, 
from the modest daisv to the flaunting helianthus. 

Select, for examination, a single one of these cave flow- 
ers — the " oulopholites " of the mineralogist. Consider the 
charms of this queenly rose that has unfolded its petals in 
Mary's Bower. From a central stem gracefully curl 
countless crystals, fibrous and pellucid ; each tiny crystal 
is in itself a study ; each fascicle of curved prisms is won- 
derful ; and the whole blossom is a miracle of beant3\ 

Xow multiply this mimic flower from one to a hundred, 
a thousand, a myriad. Move down the dazzling vista, as 
if in a dream of Elysium — not for a few yards, or rods, 
but for one or two miles ! All is virgin white, except here 
and there a little patch of gray limestone, or a spot 
bronzed by some metallic stain, or again, as we purposely 
vary the lovely monotony by burning colored lights. Mid- 
way is a great floral cross overhead, formed by the natural 
grouping of stone rosettes. Floral clusters, bouquets, 
wreaths, garlands, embellish nearly every foot of the ceil- 
ing and walls; and the very soil sparkles with trodden 
jewels. The pendulous fringes of the night-blooming 
cereus are rivaled by the snowy plumes that float from 
rifts and crevices, forever safe from the withering glare of 
day-light. Clumps of lilies, pale pansies, blanched tulips, 
drooping fuchsias, sprays of asters, spikes of tube-roses, 
wax-leaved magnolias, — but why exhaust the botanical 
catalogue? The fancy finds every gem of the green-house 
and parterre in this crystalline conservatory. Earlier vis- 
itors have described long sprays, like stalks of celerv, run- 



66 Celebrated American Ceivenis. 

mug vi:}es, and braiulu'S of a cliaiKk'liL'i-, and I. Inid not 
believed tlieni. JJnt when I told my doubts to good old 
Mat, he kindly took me to a spot where they were still to 
be seen — in Charlotte's Grotto. It has been impossible to 
guard all these exquisite formations from covetous fingers, 
and too many have been smoked by the lamps of careless 
visitors. But happily the subtle forces of nature are at 
work to mend what man has marred, and to replace by 
fresh creations what has gone to the mineralogist's cabinet 
or the amateur's etagerc. 

Cleveland's Cabinet terminates at the base of a pile of 
fragments fallen from the roof, and dignified by the name 
of the Rocky Mountains. Its height does not exceed 100 
feet, and the gorge the other side of it, the Dismal Hollow, 
is only about 70 feet deep. 

The cave here divides iutD three branches. That on the 
right leads a long distance, and ends in Sandstone Dome, 
the roof of which, judging from its material, can not be far 
below the surface. The middle branch is named Franklin 
Avenue, from 30 to 60 feet wide, and about a quarter of a 
mile long. The path is very uneven and wnld. It leads 
to a circular canopy 12 feet in diameter, called Serena's 
Arbor, thus described by a clerical writer in the l!^ew 
York Observer: "It is, of itself, floor, sides, roof, and 
ornaments, one perfect, seamless, stalactite, of a beautiful 
hue and exquisite workmanship. Folds or blades of sta- 
lactitic matter hang like drapery around the sides, reach- 
ing half way down to the floor ; and opposite the door, a 
canopy of stone projects, elegantly ornamented, as if it 
were the resting-place of a fairy bride." 

Tourists generally are content with taking the left-hand 
path, wdiich leads them at once to Croghan's Hall, which 
is the end of the Long Route. This hall is about 60 feet 
in diameter, and 85 feet high, and contains the finest sta- 
lactites in the cave, many of them, however, sadly disfig- 
ured. Some of them are translucent and very hard. On 
• the right is the Maelstrom, a pit 20 feet wide, and said to 
be 175 feet deep. It is due to the memory of a daring 
youth to tell how Mr. TV. C. Prentice, son of the poet and 



Mammoth Cave. 67 

editor, George D. Prentice, descended this abyss in quest 
of adventures. 

As the guides tell the story, they furnished a rope by 
which the young hero was lowered, amid fearful and en- 
chanting scenes, then first lighted since creation's morning 
by the feeble rays of his solitary lamp. Midwa}^ he en- 
countered a waterfall, spouting from the wall, into whose 
sparkling shower he unavoidably swung. Escaping all 
dangers, he stood at last on the solid rock below. On his 
way up, he swung himself into a huge niche, whence he 
roamed through wide and wondrous chambers till checked 
by rocky barriers. Then returning to the place where he 
had fastened his rope to a stalactite, he found it disentan- 
gled and dangling beyond his reach. Ingeniously twist- 
ing the wires of his lamp into a long hook, he caught hold 
again, and signaled to the guides to draw him up. It is 
said (believe it who may) that they did this with such zeal 
that the cable was fired by friction, and that one of the 
guides crawled out on the beam and emptied a flask of 
water on the burning rope ! The whole story, with all its 
embellishments, is done into spirited verse by Rev. George 
Lansing Taylor. The hero himself, whose life was so 
miraculously spared, finally sacrificed it during the late 
war. Prentice has had at least one imitator, if not two, 
who accomplished the descent into the Maelstrom, but 
without his adventures. 

A dog-story worth telling is connected with the last trip 
I made to the end of the Long Route, in 1881, as it ofi'ers 
some striking peculiarities. Many a dog will bravely fol- 
low his master amid tangled forests and lofty hills, that 
will refuse to go with him into a dark and silent cave. 

Jack, the old house-dog at the hotel, is not an exception 
to this rule ; for he has long had the habit of escorting 
guests as far as the Iron Gate. There he waits till all 
have gone in, and then trots home again, his duty done. 
But Jack has had a companion in his old age. 

" We call him Brigham" explains William, " 'cause he's 
Young, you know ! " 

From the first Briij-ham seemed to have no fear of dark- 



08 Celebrated American Caverns. 

ness. The two dogs would trot side by side, •a'A far as the 
Iron Gate ; but there they would part. Jack would re- 
turn, as usual, to the hotel ; while Brigham would push 
on into the cave. The latter grew to be a great favorite 
with the guides ; and Manager Klett warned us not to lose 
him when we took him in with us. 

The day that Brigham went with us on the Long Route, 
he grew very weary, and cared less for the lovely arches of 
cave flowers than for some cozy nook, where he might 
curl down for a nap. Soon after lunch in Washington 
Hall he was missing, and did not come at our repeated 
calls, 

"Perhaps he has gone ahead to Echo river," said T, 
"and is waiting for us there," 

"Like enough," said William, "I hadn't tliought of 
that." 

But no bounding form or joyful bark welcomed our ap- 
proach. The echoes answered to our calls, as if a thou- 
sand voices were crying for Brigham, as well as we ; and 
our whistling was repeated, as if all the spirits of the cave 
had been let loose for an ^olian concert. 

Plainly the dog was lost! William thought Brigham 
might track us as far as the river; but that on reaching 
the water he would lose the scent and not try to swim 
across. Lighting a freshly filled lamp, he set it on a ledge 
at the entrance to a passage called Purgatory, by which, 
with only a little swimming, the dog might make his way 
around the river. 

Sadly wo returned to the hotel, where the announce- 
ment of the loss caused a sensation. Early the next morn- 
ing a party crossed Echo river, and there they were mtt 
by Brigham, who returned in the boat with them to this 
side. Shortly, however, he again disappeared, and was 
left to his fate, 

Nothing was seen of him all that day. This time, of 
deliberate choice, he remained a second night under 
ground. The next morning Jack, too, was missing, and 
was found at the Iron Gate, exchanging experiences with 
Brigham, who was still behind the bars! 




The Corkscrew. 



Mammoth Cave. 69 

Our curiosity led us to examine Brigliam's tracks. "We 
found that he had followed our trail, step by step, his only 
guide, of course, being his sense of smell. Tlius he had 
tracked us, over soft mud-banks and mellow nitrons earth, 
ridges of sand and heaps of stone, from Echo river to the 
Corkscrew, by many a spot where a single misstep would 
liave sent the poor lonely creature plunging downward in 
darkness to inevitable death. On reaching the Corkscrew 
he did not seem to have hesitated an instant, but climbed 
up through that intricate and hazardous pass, w^here most 
men would be in confusion even with a lamp and a map of 
the cave. I could not learn that the dog had ever been 
that way before; and when he went in with us he entered 
by the way of the Deserted Chambers. 

By contrast with this perfect and fearless operation of 
instinct (which Prof. Brewer cites as a case of "orienta- 
tion'"), the story may be told of Old Mat's escape under 
somewhat similar circumstances. 

Once, during troublous times. Old Mat was at work 
near the pits when he heard some young men coming with 
song and with shout, as if they had been taking more 
wine than was for their good. The ex-slave thought' that 
" discretion was the better part of valor,"' and hid in a 
crevice, put his lamp out, and quietly waited for the rev- 
elers to pass by. On coming forth from his hiding-place 
he found that he had no matches, and therefore could not 
re-light his lamp. 

The hour was late, and he feared lest a long time might 
elapse before help should come ; he therefore determined 
to make his way out in the dark. Feeling cautiously 
along with his staff, he went safely until it suddenly 
dropped into a pit of unknowai depth. Brave as Mat is 
known to be, he fell in a swoon, and lay, no one knows 
how long, on the edge of the chasm. On coming to, he 
collected his wits as well as he could, and felt with his 
hands for the path. He presently found it, and proceeded 
on his perilous journey, making his way finally to the sur- 
face. Old Mat told me this storv himself, as he and Brig- 



70 Celebrated American Caverns. 

ham aud I sat on the brink of the ver}^ abyss in which he 
so narrowly escaped finding a tomb. 

The full moon was riding in a cloudless sky, when we 
emerged from our last day's journey in the great cavern. 
"VVe had, as usual, a practical proof of the purity of the 
exhilarating cave atmosphere, by its contrast with that of 
the outer world, which seemed heavy and sufiTocating. 
The odors of trees, grass, weeds and flowers were strange- 
ly intensified and over-powering. The result of a too sud- 
den transition is frequently faintness and vertigo. The 
custom is to linger awhile on the threshold, where, the 
outer and inner airs mingle. Resting thus, on rustic seats, 
near the entrance, my companions and I interchanged our 
views concerning this wide subterranean realm whose 
secrets we had been exploring. Matt said we had tramped 
to and fro, in and out, not less than a hundred miles; and 
there was none to dispute him ! We had gained less defi- 
nite knowledge than we had anticipated ; and had a surfeit 
of conjectures, estimates and mysteries. We were grateful, 
however, for the impressions we had received, and tor the 
memories retained of wonderful scenes and strange adven- 
tures.' Feelings akin to friendship had sprung up within 
us for Mammoth Cave; and it was with positive regret 
that we finally turned away from the fern-fringed chasm 
lying there in the soft moonlight, where the sparkling 
cascade throws pearly drops from the mossy ridge, aud 
spreads its mist like a silver veiL 



APPENDIX A. 



SUBTERRANEAN FLORA AND FAUNA. 

Underground America is of vast extent, ami we have nuich yet to 
learn as to the varieties of life permitted by its peculiar conditions. 
Vegetation in Mammoth Cave would be seriously affected by its hydro- 
graphy. As the primitive river system of the Ohio Valley sank from 
terrace to terrace, the floor of the cavern would sink from tier to tier. 
There are in all five well marked levels ; the lower ones being still 
liable to inundation, but the upper ones being extremely dry. In arid 
localities, destitute alike of light and of moisture, few plant forms could 
grow. Wood decays slowly; meat hung up remains long without 
putrefaction ; luncheon relics, though there by the cart-load, impart 
not the slightest taint to the atmosphere. But in the lower halls, 
where the conditions are reversed, timbers soon decay and meat 
((uickly spoils. From the underside of bridges masses of snow-wliite 
fungi many feet long sway in huge fantastic folds. Five indigenous 
kinds of fungi have been thus far identified ; by far the most com- 
mon being the Oozonium auricomum. I found a bed of agarics near 
the river Styx, which led to experiments for raising mushrooms on a 
large scale for the markets. The prepared beds are to be seen in Au- 
dubon avenue, where thousands of dollars have been expended under 
expert gardeners. 

The fauna of caverns is richer than their flora. Yet the list is not 
long after rigoroudy excluding transient varieties. Bats, rats, mice, 
and lizards are no more truly cave-dwellers than are the raccoons and 
opossums that come in to prey on them ; although scmie of them may 
have staid long enough under ground to be affected by their sur- 
roundings. After careful research, and canceling synonymns, I am 
unable to enumerate more than about one hundred species of true sub- 
terranean fauna in the caverns of our country. These are thus dis- 
tributed through the animal kingdom : 

Infusoria 9 species. Arachnida 31 species. 

Vermes 4 " Myriopoda 5 " 

Crustacea 11 " Insecta 33 " 

Vertebrata 4 species. 

Insignificant as many of these creatures may seem, shyly darting 

" (71) 



72 Appendix. 

into crevices, or hiding under stones, at the visitor's approacli, they 
have probably had more attention from scientific men thnn any other 
animals of their size. Tliey have been micr()scoi)ically examined down 
to their minutest particles, and many pages have been laboriously 
written about them, bristling with words big enough to describe 
whales and mastodons, instead of minnows, crickets, spiders, flies, 
worms, and fleas. Those desiring to pursue the matter more thor- 
oughly are referred to the publications of Putnam, W^yman, Cope, 
Hubbard, Emerton, and others, and especially to the exhaustive me- 
moir on tlie cave fauna of Nortli America laid before the National 
Academy of Sciences, in 1886, by Professor A. S. Packard, together 
with a complete bibliography of cave literature. 

Only a few of the many hard names given by scientists to the ani- 
mals of Mammoth Cave need be mentioned to the general reader. 
Amblyopsis, Typhlichthys, and Chologaster are generic appellations of 
the blind fish. The sightless crawfish is the Canibarus pellucidus. 
The formidable name of the cave cricket (or grasshopper) is the Hade- 
noecus subterraneus. The ordinary cave spider is the completely eye- 
less Anthrobia; and there are also the Acanthocheir, the absurdly long- 
legged Phrixis, and perhaps one or two other species. The flies for 
which these spiders lie in wait are the Anthomyia, and the .^-ingularly 
interesting Phora. Among beetles maybe mentioned theAdelops and 
Anophthalmus ; while the Myriopods are represented by the iiairy Sco- 
terpes and its near ally the Pseudotremia. Cave hunters will be grati- 
fied to learn that none of these creatures are known to be poisonous. 
I never heard of any serpents venturing within the cave ; and the few 
lizards that one sees are harmless. Its fiistnesses harbor no wild beasts, 
whatever may have once been true as to bears and panthers, wolves 
and wild cats. 

What do cave animals feed upon ? The Myriopoda subsist on decay- 
ing wood, and the debris swept in by streams. Crickets also live on 
decaying vegetable matter. But the majority of cave animals are 
scavengers, feeding on the relics left by human visitors. Spiders spin 
their webs in the dark to catch silly flies. Blind crawfish live on the 
Crangonyx and other minute Crustacea, on which also the eyeless fish 
likewise feed, as well as on the young crawfish, wlien these can be 
caught, and on minnows of their own species. They have been kept 
for a year in an aquarium with no food except the convervae and ani- 
malculae growing naturally in the water. 

All kinds of cave fauna tend to deterioration. The plants are 
bleached. The spiders, flies, and centipedes are either a pale brown 
or white. The fish are translucent. We do not recall an exception 



Appendix. 73 

to this general rule. Seemingly the cells are absorbed in which the 
light should have secreted pigmental matter. Sightless animals, how- 
ever, show differences indicating a progressive adaptation to their en- 
vironment. They also enjoy some peculiar compensations for the 
atrophy of their organs of vision, in the increased sensitiveness of 
their other organs, and in the remarkable elongation of their hair, 
auteuniB, and limbs. Their habits are extremely wary. Put the com- 
mon crawfisli in the same tank with the blind variety ; offer the same 
food to both ; by the former it will be taken eagerly and disposed of, 
but the latter will dart back, wave its long feelers for further informa- 
tion, and only take the morsel after a series of cautious approaches 
and retreats. 

As to the age of the cavern Fauna, some authorities carry it back 
to the Cretacious period, others to the Tertiary, and others again no 
further than the early Quaternary. I incline toward the more mod- 
ern date. Comparisons have been worked out between the cavern 
Fauna and certain abyssal species from the Alpine lakes, the Caspian 
Sea, and deep oceanic soundings. But after all the cavern region 
must have been insular, at a time when its surroundings were marine 
or lacustrine. That being so, its life would be characteristic of that 
period whose retreating waves made the insular region possible, which 
was presumably the Quaternary. Insulation would result in isolation ; 
and that amid disadvantages fatal to weak or inflexible species, and 
modifying stronger ones. Surviving forms would gradually become 
adapted to their peculiar environment by a process more fitly de- 
scribed as retardation than as development. 

Why, under what we regard as a benign administration, should 
certain species be imprisoned as denizens of darkness for successive 
generations, spanning thousands of years, until the beautifid organs 
once enabling their ancestors to enjoy the blessed light, should have 
wasted away and totally disappeared ? A partial answer is found in 
the wonderful compensations that manifest the constant working of a 
benevolent design, even amid extraordinary obstacles. Some prob- 
lems that used to be deemed insoluble liave been clearly solved; and 
others that now are dark will yet be made clear for men who have pa- 
tience to wait and work and think. Meanwhile let us rejoice in the 
infinite variety of revelations actually made to our growing minds, 
whether from the starry skies, the abysmal seas, or from the laby- 
rinthine caves and subterranean streams. 



APPENDIX B. 



THE OPEXING OF GANTER AVENUE. 



If the reader will find on the general Map of the Cave, the local- 
ities designated as the Wooden Bowl Room (25), and the Serpent 
Hall (45), he will better understand the significance and importance 
of Ganter Avenue, the name now given to a combination of several 
smaller avenues, effected by sixteen months of hard labor under Mr. 
H. C. Ganter's direction, and plotted by H. C. Hovey and Ben 
Haius, March, 1891. The history of this passage-way is peculiar. In 
September, 1879, certain guides returning from the end of tlie cave, 
noticed, on reaching Serpent Hall, that smoke was issuing from a 
crevice to which their attention had not previously been called. 
They were naturally excited, as they could not imagine the cause of 
such a phenomenon, suggesting some sort of internal fire. But having 
crossed Echo river to the shore nearest the entrance, they found work- 
men there pitching a boat, and by that means creating a great smoke 
not perceived on the river. This showed that there must be some 
secret connection between the two places. Going back to Serpent 
Hall they wormed their way through a series of extremely narrow 
crevices, finally emerging by the Black Snake Avenue into the Wooden 
Bowl Room. To this new discovery I gave the name of Welcome 
Avenue; but now, with permission, re-name the entire combination 
Ganter Avenue, in honor of the manager, by whose tireless energy 
and engineering skill it has been opened for the public. In doing this 
feat obstacles were overcome that seemed insurmountable. 

For a long distance ^the passage, though thirty or fjrty feet high, 
was extremely narrow at the bottom, besides being as crooked as i)o.s- 
sible. A new stone floor was boldly laid midway to the top where a 
wider path was secured. Yet even then the walls converged at places 
so as to compel one to go sidewise for a hundred yards at a time ; and 
when two men met, one of them would have to lie down and let the 
other walk over his body. The walls, moreover, were frequently 
studded with countless knobs from two to five inches long, and sharp 
enough to make a careless passer quite uncomfortable. At no small 
cost, and by much judicious digging, pounding and blasting, these and 
other obstacles have been overcome, so that the entire avenue is now 
(74) 



Appetxfix. 75 

easily passable Among the remarka])le triumphs of engineering, 
especially remembering the narrow quarters of the workmen, is the 
construction of what we have called Kider Haggard's Flight (for the 
author of that remarkable cave-uovel "She") ; a stairway of one hun- 
dred solid stone steps connecting the three levels of the cavern. There 
are branches from the avenue leadiug to domes, pits and crystal 
rooms, etc. But the main advantage of the passage is that it enables 
the manager to «eud parties over the Long Route at any time of the 
year, regardless of the condition of the rivers. Ordinarily tourists 
would much prefer to go by River Hall, on account of the fine echoes, 
as well as other objects of interest; But when the streams are flooded, 
Ganter Avenue will alwavs be found dry and safe. The direct rock dis- 
tance from the Wooden Bowl Room to Serpent Hall is estimated at 
about 3,200 feet; but such are the manifold windings of Ganter Av- 
enue, that its entire length, as measured by us, is exactly 8,500 feet, 
although to a weary visitor, longing for the comforts of the hotel after 
a day's journey under ground, it would probably seem to be twice 
that distance. 








BY 



HORT^Ce C. HOVEV. 



FOURTEENTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 



CINCINNATI: 
ROBERT CLARKE & CO. 

1891. 
(copyrighted.) 



Hovey's Illastrated liectares. 



I, Subterranean Scenery and the Lovely Caverns of Luray. 
II. The Wonders of Wyandot and Marengo Caverns. 

III. The Mazes and Marvels of Mammoth Cave. 

IV. CiifT and Cave Dwellers of Arizona and New MeXf^o. 
V. Mountaineering in Colorado: Its Caves and Canons. 

VI. The Camera on the Tornado's Track. 
VII. Subterranean Life as bearing on Theories of Evolution. 
VIII. Acadia: Land of Blue Noses and Home of Evangeline. 

Magnificent pictures! And the fact that he has seen all he describes adds interest to his 
very instructive lectures. — Philadelphia Enquirer. 

Dr. Ilovey is one of the foremost cave explorers in the country, and can tell many 
thrilling stories of underground adventure— iVea) York Tribune. 

Chickering Hall was crowded by the .ntellectual elite of New York to hear Dr. Hovey 
lecture on Mammoth ('ave, and the general verdict pronounced it one of the most fasci- 
nating lectures ever given. As a popular lecturer Dr. Hovey has fev^ equals. — Scientific 
American. 

Whether he treats of caverns, mountains, or tornadoes, the lecturer's own interest in 
his subject never fails to engage that of his hearers.— Minneapolis Tribune. 

Each lecture is illustrated by a hundred views, taken by expert 
artists at great original expense and exhibited by a powerful stereopticon. 
For terms and further information apply to the Redpath Lyceum Bureau, 
Tribune Building, Chicago, 111., and 120 Tremout Street, Boston, Mass.; 

or directly to 

H. C. HOVEY, Bridgeport, Conn. 

Hovey's Celebrated flmeriean Caverns. 

Celebrated American Caverns, especially Mammoth, Wyandot, and Luray; 
with Brief Notices of Caves and Grottoes in other lands. Maps and 
Illustrations. By Horace C. Hovey, D.D., F.G.S., etc. 

A handsome 8vo volume. 228 pages-. Price, $2.00. 

Will be sent by mail on receipt of the price. 

This work is recognized as a standard authority on the subject both in this country and 
in Europe. In it facts are sifted from fancies, all" former material has been carefully col- 
lated, and much new material added, as the result of the author's explorations. Dr. 
Hovey's familiarity with geology and other bran(;hes of natural science, together with his 
clearness of style a'nd vividness "of description, make this work one of the most instructive 
and entertaining ever offered to the public. His mtmographs on single caverns, in the En- 
cyclopedui Britannica, and in Scribner's and other magazines and scientific periodicals, 
have won for the author, deservedly, a wide dnd lasting fame. The numerous maps and 
diagrams add greatly to the value ol the work; and the pictorial illustrations are from 
sketches made expressly for the volume by Barton, Pencil, Lee, and other artists of repu- 
tation. 

While the largest space is reserved for the three most farhous caverns named in the title 

page, full notices are given of Weyer's, Howe's, and Pickett's caves, the Cave of Cacahua- 

milpa, Canadian caves, the Cliff Dwellers of New Spain, etc. The preliminary chapters, 

> the structure, varieties, mineral contents, and archaeology of caverus, are clear and in- 

■i; active. The work is admirably indexed. 

ROBERT CLARKE &. CO., Publishers, Cincinnati, 0. 



MAMMOTH CAVE HOTEL 

Is situated in Edmonson County, Kentucky, on the south side of Green lliver, on 
a plateau of 735 feet elevation above the Atlantic. Travel to this renowned re- 
sort is facilitated by the Louisville and Nashville llailroad and its various branches, 
embracing the whole South and connecting with all the principal railroad lines 
of the country. This important railroad is unrivaled for its safety, speed, and 
comfort. Three Express Trains leave its northern and southern termini daily, 
and connect at Glasgow Junction, Ky., with ti. firsi-ela/>s. nieel-tmck railroad to 
Mammoth Cave. Those holding through tickets are entitled to stop-over at the 
Cave within the limit of their tickets. 

The road from Ghisjrow Junction to Mammoth Cnve winds amon*? the hills 
Rnd across the hiirh table lands, passing throusrh large, finely wooded irucis to the 
Oreon lliver Bluffs, on which the Hotel is situated. 

The IloTEL, surrounded by a verdant lawn and shade trees, is a spacious build- 
ing, and with its wing of cottages attiiched, furnishes comfortable and ample accom- 
modations to visitors to the Cave. Six hundred feet of portico forms one of the most 
delightful promenades imaginable for summer weather. Aside from the attraction 
of the Cave as a natural wonder, this spot is a charming re-ort for those seeking 
quiet and recreation during the heated term. Attached to the Hotel are a spacious 
ball room, croquet, lawn tennis, and arcliery grounds. The woods surrounding the 
Hotel and grounds, with their deep shaded ravines, furnish delightful promenades, 
while Green lliver, at a short distance, offers excellent opportunities for boating 
and fishing. The table is well suppli(Hl from the farms of the estate, and gives 
universal satisfaction to those who appreciate wholesome and nutritious fare. 

The Cave is reached by a shady path down the side of a beautiful ravine, two 
hundred yards from the Hotel. Amid noble trees, hanging vines and fringing 
ferns is the entrance to this subterranean world of wonders. Its avenues, passages, 
domes, pits and rivers, already explored, extend over more than one hundred miles 
on various levels, of which the lowest is ?>"i5 feet from the surface, and still many 
years of exploration are necessary before the main wonders will be known. 

Tourists, unless desiring a leisurely exploration, when special arrangements 
can be made, are conducted by competent guides to all interesting points of the 
Cave, and for the convenience of visitors, the following routes are established: 

Long Route — including Main Cave, Rotunda, Giant's Coffin, Pits and Domes, 
Echo River and beyond to end of Cave, returning by way of the "Corkscrew," a 
distance (approximated) of twenty miles, $3 00. 

Short Route — embracing Rotunda, Main Cave, Gothic Gallery, Star Cham- 
ber, Giant's Coffin, Pits and Domes, etc., a distance (approximated) of eight miles, 
$2 00. 

Mammoth Dome or Egyptian Temple — with its beautiful Colonade and 
lofty vault, $1 00. 

Chief City — five hundred feet in length, two hundred feet in width, and one 
hundred and twenty feet high, covering an area of two acres, $1.00. 

White's Cave — a short distance from the Hotel, is also greatly admired on 
account of the beauty and variety of its stalactitic formations, and is shown for 
$1 00. 

Baj'ard Taylor savs of the Cave, after visiting all the great natural wonders 
of the Old and New AVorlds : 

" I hail been twelve hours under ground, but I had gained an age in a strange and hith- 
erto unknown world; an age of wonderful experience, and an exhaustless store of sublime 
and lovely memories. Before taking a final leave of the Mammoth Cave, however, let me 
assure th(jse who have followed me through it that no description can do justice to its 
sublimity, or present a fair picture of its manifold wonders. It is the greatest natural 
curiosity I have ever visited, Niagara not excepteil, and he whose expectations are not sat- 
isfied by its marvelous avenues, domes, and starry grottoes, must either be a fool or a dem- 
igod." 

A visit to Mammoth Cave at any season of the year is delightful. The tem- 
perature, fifty-five degrees, being the same the year round. The most delicate can 
visit it witliout fear of cold, heat, or exhaustion. 

Transient Rates, $3.00 per Day. Liberal arrangements made for Summer 
boarders by the week or month, and for Excursion parties over ten in number, both 
at Hotel and for Cave Fees. 

Open all the year. Both a Winter and a Summer Resort. 

For further information, apply to H. C. Ganter, Agent, Mammoth Cave 
Estate, Mammoth Cave, Ky. 




.12 



